LO206 FlyWheel Removal


Hello all,

Is there a way to pull the flywheel of without the tool made for it? I am in need of taking it off to assemble another motor before the weekend and can't find any tools in stock and don't know if I have enough time to order one.

The block its coming out of it blown so any damage to the block doesn't matter.

Hopefully someone can help me out.


I would loosen, almost. But not quite not remove, the nut, have an assistant hold pressure on the wheel, in the direction you want it to come, and rap the end of the crank( the loosened nut) a few times..
Should jar it loose
The nut is a good surface to hit... and will protect its own threads... if u hit the end of the crank u may mushroom it, then when the wheel is loose, you wouldn't be able to get the nut off lol

Your assistant could hold the engine in the air, by the flywheel, and the weight of the engine will help it separate


Premium User
I've taken a shop rag, folded it up and carefully taped it to the outside of the flywheel, away from the magnets, to prevent damage(denting mainly) and hit it hard with a hammer to jar it loose, probably far from ideal, but when you're in a pinch, it will get the job done...😎


Dawg 89
A brass hammer is a good choice .
Even with a puller sometimes a good rap is required .
A heavy hammer not a 16oz carpenter or ball peen .
I wouldn't hit the outer edge .
This is a do as i say , not as i do situation . IE : not a recommend procedure .




Dawg 89
^^^ No .
Post # 2 -----Is the method .


Dawg 89
Jmo But pulling on the rim is bad idea .
There are two holes Near the center You could use them , still need a good rap on the center bolt .
Do as stated in post # 2 . Just unscrew the nut too the end of the crank . Whack it with a 2-3 lb hammer .
Its done this way more often then is admitted .


If none of this is suitable... maybe a steering wheel puller from o reilleys or similar?
Most have a loan a tool program i think

Just another thought


I have the capability to machine one also today. I am unsure of the threads on both the flywheel and the internal of crank


You want to unscrew the crank nut so the surface you're hitting is even with the end of the crankshaft. Try to hit it square so you don't tilt the nut and damage the threads. The end of the shaft is beveled and so will tolerate some contact. Try a soft mallet first then move on to a hard hammer. Shouldn't have to wail on it just strong taps. Of course you have to take up the slack in the shaft and bearings opposite the direction you're hitting so the shaft has somewhere to go. If you feel you're hitting it hard enough to damage things you'll have to get the proper puller.



Premium User
Sometimes, I think we get mind-numbed and forget the motors were talking about are lawnmower engines, not pieces of fine art or chandeliers or the like, spray the threads with wd40, give it a good wap or two with a hammer till it's loose and get it off the motor and move on....🤣


I finally got it off last night but not the way I wanted to lol but that is how it always goes isn't it haha.

I tried the method from josheezpapa first but it wouldn't come off so I had a buddy that said he had a puller and thought well why didn't I ask first lol

Went over there and he pulls a puller like just the picture I posted (insert face palm)..whatever at this point I just needed it off and he put it on and gave it a pull and popped off.

Switched everything over to my new motor but guess what...never ends when you try doing it yourself lol

The nut that holds it all together on the crankshaft threads on the old motor fine but won't thread all the way on the crankshaft all the way. Thread must've got damaged at some point before I had it. Brought the new motor to work with me today and going to run a die over it to see if that will fix the threads.

I will keep everyone updated on this and hopefully I can fire it up tonight and race this weekend. I will also let everyone know if the 206 motor decides to blow up again. Will post picture of the blown block. And yes It had fresh new oil in it and ran motor for a bit before It blew up on the track the first 1/4 straight away when I pulled on.
Are you in Wisconsin ??

There are literally 50 kart shops who could have had that puller to you in one day via Spee-Dee??

I am loosing faith in todays retailers (insert unavailable Face Palm Emoji)

You will still need that puller at some point in your career again, as well as a float height gauge if you don't already have one.

Try contacting Jim at Faster Motors or Rob at Kart City Performance and they can get one to you.....There should be links here on this page somewhere to their websites.


Dawg 89
Double check your thread count .
As I think the resl early stuff was standard thread .
Found this in the animal section.

The threads for the Animal crank are 16mm X1.5 tpm
The thread for the flathead crank is 5/8" x 18 tpi
We generally have anything you might need for the L206 in stock.
For a flywheel remover, I use a kinetic knocker that threads over the end of the crank. All L206 cranks (and animal cranks for the past 10+ years) are metric thread. I use a 2 pound mini-sledge and it can take a good whack sometimes. Little taps rarely cut it.
Never hit the nut that holds the flywheel on the crank if you intend to use the same nut again. If you choose to whack on it with a hammer, plan to replace the nut when installing it on the new short block.
You can also make a puller very easily with a small piece of 1/4" flat steel and two bolts.
NEVER strike the flywheel with a hammer.
Worst case scenario: If you're convinced that the old crank/block is junk - you can cut the crank behind the flywheel with a sawzall or hacksaw, then press the cut piece of crankshaft out of the flywheel in a small shop press.

🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN