Lo206 running to lean

H

HammerdownRacing

Member
my lo206 used to be running very rich as far as these things go. but these last few races it running way to lean overheating and killing my speed do these motors do that over time or is my float just need adjusting, vapor leak or something else.
 
Mopdog,
Wow, you set your float every week? If you set it one week at a specific point, how much will it be different the next time you set it a week later? What kind of racing are you doing? I think I better check mine more often to see if it is changing. I kind of thought this was a set it and forget it kind of thing.
 
And we pavement race so it doesnt bounce around alot....sometimes just the trailer ride will throw it off so I check it all the time....takes 2 mins. Ive seen karts take a good hit on the track then run like crap because the float is off. Carb is the weak point on the motor.
 
mopdog said:
And we pavement race so it doesnt bounce around alot....sometimes just the trailer ride will throw it off so I check it all the time....takes 2 mins. Ive seen karts take a good hit on the track then run like crap because the float is off. Carb is the weak point on the motor.
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Pavement doesn't bounce a lot ? What track you at ? Our track is rougher than most.

As he said, I also check carb each week.
 
Yeah but alot less the the dirt tracks ive seen....the bump into 1 this weekend will throw it off for sure!
 
Never heard of checking the carb every week. If you are talking head temperature then it is not an accurate indicator of carburetion. Hot summer weather will make the kart tight and increase temp quickly.
 
I recommend that guys trailer the kart to and from the track with fuel in the bowl for just this reason.
We ran two seasons on our LO206 and I don't recall it changing or resetting it even once during that time. I'm sure I cleaned it and checked it over the winter, but it never changed. Floats didn't gain weight, none of that stuff you hear about. We've run some pretty rough tracks and just aren't seeing some of the issues guys have told me about. 9 times out of 10 I hear that they drain the bowl before they trailer home at the end of the night. I can only assume this is what is causing them some issues. Just think about how stiff our trailers ride down the road. Torsion axles or not, they bounce like crazy - especially single axle trailers.

I don't know how you could get one of these engines too hot (even if it's locked down.) With stock timing, conservatively rich carb, spec pipe, and no tape on the blower housing - I didn't think it was possible to overheat one. (CHT or any other method) On the dyno I've got a 5506 pipe with the egt sensor and a/f ratio at the end of the muffler -- shows way rich all the time for me. I'm pretty sure that is by design.

--
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cuts
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Celebrating 25 years of service to the karting industry
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
I do trailer with fuel in it (so does KJ). The float is rarely off but we do check em alot. We have to run plate motors and the float off just alittle affects how they run.....you will hear the motor spudder and miss a beat or 2 in the corners....I just dont let it get to that is all. I found a sweet spot with the float so I want to make sure its there all the time, takes 3 mins.
 
You should not have to set the float every week.
The spring in the float needle can make checking the float level a trick but i never find the float level changing unless the float gets saturated with fuel or there is needle corrosion
I'm guessing it takes me 10 to 15 minutes to remove the carb, set the float and re-install the carb and recheck the idle and mixture etc.
 
I think maybe float drop can be checked in 3 min. but float level requires carb removal. More than 3 min there,
 
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