Looking to fab up a tire roller....

1fasttiller

Member
Hi fellas, we're a low budget team and It's time I get a tire roller in our shop but can't afford a nice ready made one so I'm wanting to build my own. I have the 2RPM rotisserie motor, plenty of fab skills and a welder. I'm trying to figure out what kind of rod stock I can buy that doesn't need turned in a lathe that will work and fit in common variety flange mounted bearings (1/2"-5/8"-3/4" etc) for the rollers. Any ideas to help a fella out?
 
Sorry, I know thats a little vague... lol I was looking at black water pipe for the rollers but of course none of it has a standard OD that will fit a common bearing...
 
I built one in an old tool box, I had to get bearing cut from plastic bars , if you can find one for around $250. Buy it , PPK in Denton tx had some
 
I built one in an old tool box, I had to get bearing cut from plastic bars , if you can find one for around $250. Buy it , PPK in Denton tx had some
Sorry, I can't justify $250 for one, I have everything but the rollers laying in my shop... there just isn't that much there.
 
I have 3/4 tubing for rollers. Same stuff I make my bumpers & nerf bars from. Bought a pack of 4 - 3/4” ID pillow block bearings from amazon for $20-25.
 
1fasttiller:

I built one a few years ago and literally have the cost of the rotisserie and some strip metal-- that is it. Here is a rough description of the one I built: First it is approximately 5 1/2 feet long and roughly 13-14 inches wide. My width ends are made from 3/4 by 8 inch pine (approx 13-14"). My rollers are thick wall aluminum tubing that I had on the shelf. Luckily the ID of the tubing was almost identical to the OD of roller skate bearings which I pressed into the tubing and locked into place with some drilled & tapped set screws. On the end of the drive roller, I took a chrome metal hole plug and cut a square hole in it the same dimension as the square shaft that came with the rotisserie. I inserted the hole cap in the roller and put some set screws in between the prongs of the hole plug which go inside the tubing so that pressure could not cause the hole plug to pop out or spin inside the tubing.

After drilling 5/16 inch holes in the pine wood ends I drove 5/16" bolts through them and these are what the roller skate bearing rotate on. The pine wood ends are held together with 2 strips of aluminum angle which are screwed into the wood. I put some cross members from one side of the aluminum angle metal. I then put some diagonal cross braces about 4 " long from the wood end to the angle simply to stablize. In short, the wood pieces are the narrow end of this retangular shape and the aluminum angle is the long sides.

This unit is very, very light and works extremely well & has been very durable. I never did this, but have always intened to cut a 1 1/2 inch hol in the center of each wood end and then take PVC pipe and drill numerous holes in the PVC plus cap one end. This would allow me to load the roller with tires, then insert the PVC through the inside of the tires and then put a blow dryer or heat gun in the uncapped end and run heat to the tires while rolling them around the hot air coming out of the holes in the PVC.

My total cost was about $28.00 and it works super.

Good luck!
CMac
 
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