low tension rings

Am I allowed to ask at what temperature must the rings be annealed? and for how long in an oven?......assuming we are using an oven.......from some engine part factories I have previously visited, stress relieving is normally like 200DegC (392DegF) for about 2 hours? then remove and allow to air cool.......the parts will go a straw/pale-yellow colour afterwards?.......but I admit its been a while since I dabbled in steel heat-treatments......sounds like annealing and stress-relieving are two different heat treatments?

So only de-tension the scraper ring and two thin oil control rings, ok got that, not the top ring, ARC have a good article on their blog which says the same.......but what about the expander spring?......should that be de-tensioned, or just clipped down a bit?

I thought this article was interesting, they mention 480-520DegC (896-968DegF) for 10 minutes, then air cool.......but the article looks ancient!

http://www.metalstop.com/technical/wal-ring/wal-ring-b.html
 
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The slower you do it the better the results.. Never turn a ring red is my opinion and findings.. 700 degrees in a Kiln for approx 15 minutes.. Let cool on its own and repeat 2 or 3 times.. Then the rings should fall out of the sleeve with a light tap of a hammer.. The sleeve you'd use needs to have a bottom to make sure the rings are flat and stay that way..

AS far as oil ring explanders.. Keep using the same one you remove and never throw it away.. Be careful on clipping it off.. Does not take much and you have a smoker..

Lastly if you are just doing your own engines and time isn't money then just cycle the engine (Breakin time) many times,, they will loosen up and that way you are more assured the engine rings sealed properly.. Its all about heat cycles.. 15 minute runtime and allow to cool.. Repeat repeat and repeat..

JMO
 
I agree kart43...simple heat then air cool has worked best for me. I have heard of guys quenching them in water and just the thought of that is crazy to me, like you say they can just snap anytime...not what you want in a piston ring. I believe oil would more or less heat treat the ring and not be as likely to break as with water but i could be wrong
You are right, quenching in water or oil serves for tempering. Depending on what you heat the metal to determines the hardness of steel afterwards. For what you are trying I would heat till the metal just starts changing color. To do what you Guys are attempting with rings, you would be better served by cooling them in a lime box, which is a box full of slack lime. The lime does not cool the steel instantly and allows for cooling at an even tempt, allowing less stress cracking. Back in my younger days when I had hair, I was a Millwright at the largest sawmill in SE United States, and have used the prescribed tech many times, more than I have hairs on my head.
 
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