Magneto Gap

I am really hoping that the money that Briggs has invested into short life tooling, and exceptional factory assembly will kill any real advantage to high order tuning. At the higher levels of competition, creative intelligence will always dig for those 1/100 second at a time incremental gains. However, within the specifications that are stated for the engine, an out of the box engine with a basic valve and float adjustment should be close right? Chassis, tire management, physical fitness etc. should trump any possible "Legal" tweaks. Attracting and retaining quality people and better yet families to this sport is vitally important these days. This class has gained a lot of interest by what I would call the elite level racers. Advanced tuning always follows shorty behind. And that's where the fight generally starts. My personal tuning flow chart for the LO 206 is as follows: 1. Basic maintenance. 2. Pull rope, does it idle? 3. Does it pull clean from corner to corner? 4. Does it hit limiter? 5. Stop thinking about it and learn to drive smooth with as little braking as my ball-nutties can handle. I hope that this package survives where virtually every other controlled class I have either raced or championed in the last 20 years has not.. We need it.
 
If you all are saying that opening the coil air gap is not helping performance (measurably on our current dynos)?
So then can we say that opening the coil air gap is not hurting performance? (Certainly not measurably on my dyno.)

I'm pretty proud of my old dynosaur because of it's repeatability. Not saying that I'm not missing something, but I have yet to see opening the coil air gap up some hurt the power. (Not on an open animal with rare earth magnet flywheel and not on an LO206.) Certainly not hurting it a tenth and certainly not rubbing on the flywheel like I see so many others' engines do (I suspect that hurts a tenth or more!)
I can show you the gain on a small plate flathead -- I know, I know, different ignition system, lower HP, etc. My thought is that there is power gained on the ohv engines w./ pvl alike, but that within the parameters of my dyno I can't verify and back up that small of an amount. If it's worth 1/100 I'll take it. I don't care how small of a gain.
Hello guys I'm new here. So my sons engine block was damaged after running a few rain races in South Florida. Before the damage, engine was a rocket especially on straights. After moving all parts over to the new engine block we realized this engine is not as fast. Especially in the straights we are struggling to keep up in a draft. I noticed the coil had some slight movement from left to right when installing. Admittedly, I thought placing the coil all the way left was going to be best. I suspect I'm wrong in doing so and that is why this engine is not running correctly. I ordered a timing wheel and piston stop and have been watching some videos.
Any help or suggestions so I can set the timing correctly would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hello guys I'm new here. So my sons engine block was damaged after running a few rain races in South Florida. Before the damage, engine was a rocket especially on straights. After moving all parts over to the new engine block we realized this engine is not as fast. Especially in the straights we are struggling to keep up in a draft. I noticed the coil had some slight movement from left to right when installing. Admittedly, I thought placing the coil all the way left was going to be best. I suspect I'm wrong in doing so and that is why this engine is not running correctly. I ordered a timing wheel and piston stop and have been watching some videos.
Any help or suggestions so I can set the timing correctly would be greatly appreciated.
Wowzers -- old post revival here! (thanks for using the search feature)

Rarely in an adult slide L206 is the coil best set hard left (ie advanced.) It may even be out of spec when set there.
The only real way to accurately set the ignition timing is on a dyno. Sure, you can attempt to make consistent laps at the track, come in and change the timing, and head back out to make some more laps, but that's not only impractical but inconsistent enough to make small definitive improvements in ignition timing.
I'd suggest moving the coil back to center of the slots side to side, and see if that helps some.
I suspect that your new short block is not as fast as the old engine simply because it has not broken in enough yet -- these engines keep getting better with time/laps. The ring set if extremely tight in them when new and take forever (it seems) to loosen up. They are built this way for durability, reliability, and repeatability - not specifically for all-out performance.


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
-- these engines keep getting better with time/laps. The ring set if extremely tight in them when new and take forever (it seems) to loosen up. They are built this way for durability, reliability, and repeatability - not specifically for all-out performance.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
32 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Very interesting Brian, thanks for sharing.
 
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