Master Pipe list

ottrocket44

New member
With all of the different pipes that have been made over the years, it would be nice to compile a master list. It would be nice to get application, rpm range, approximate flex length, etc. Maybe include whether or not the pipe is still competitive today. Just a thought from someone with a growing collection of pipes. Thanks
Shane
 
I can understand that, because if you have a sizeable collection, without the orig. paper work,(applications), some are worthless, but if you can remember way back when almost all pipes came with a sheet that gave starting suggestions for almost every available popular engine of that time, you should be able to figure out what to try. I have done some with very favorable results. Like right now I have some RS series RLV pipes that Dick Dunwell gave me and a RS-1 pipe has been run very successfully by us on a TT-25, K-55, and KT-100. Interesting thing is that the same flex length has been run on all of them.
 
I'm sure most of this paperwork has been lost throughout the years. I've never bought a pipe new so I've never received any. That's why I was thinking if we compiled a master list that included the data that would have come with the paperwork, it would help out people that have a collection.
 
IMHO, one of the biggest problems is that if the pipe can't be visually identified, like some I have that have the # ground off. Personally I mark those that are in the pile with I.D. using silver marking pen right on the flex collar. I do have some orig. sheets, but would need a number to be of any help, if asking on here, pictures are a requirement.
 
Most of the pipes I have, have the numbers on them. I am familiar with most of them. I just remember seeing a lot of posts asking about which pipes are good for what. If there was a master list they could just reference that. Pictures could be put with each pipe as well to help identify.
 
Pipes; Kathey Hartman 60/30 95/8 pp, open 81/4, KH open straight Mike Colver "stamp" 91/2 --- H-Rev K-1 10, K-2 10 pp Rotary 93/4 Reed 10. K1y 95/8, K2y + 1/8 mid top end---Mayco 67/8--- Gary Hartman small can 200 97/8. Pro80-P8 81/2, 2fd-15fd-3fd 10-101/4 Stock Appeaing Reed, T-1-2-3-4 93/4-101/4, Delta 2 10, ---Emmick E7-8 97/8,---GEM 1990 95/8-3/4pp 93/4-101/4 cont Rot/reed, 2165 93/8-3/4
 
As far as RLV goes for the reed I used the RS1 and 3 both excellent pipes and for yamaha I was in the pipe of the month club but the G-0 for me seem to be the best.......awesome oval pipe!
 
One point about the original "application sheets" is that they were provided with a product that someone was trying to sell at the time, for engines and clutches and classes that were being raced back then. Now that does not mean to imply that an outdated pipe is no longer viable for a certain engine. But a "shortcut" to actually determine its performance potential compared to a modern pipe just doesn't exist. "Cut and try" either at the track or on a dyno is really the only answer. I have been surprised more than once by a rusty old pipe on the dyno compared to the latest offerings. I probably have close to a hundred pipes and perhaps 20 personal engines, but only a limited amount of time. I don't want to waste it rechecking old technology
George
 
1 big thing I always wondered about is are there some pipes that got different markings just to sell more of them? reason being that there are so many that visually look the same and they are so hard to measure that you really need to try them on the track or dyno to choose.
 
Too, reed engines generally respond well with stingers. Yet on one very cold race date at Daytona a stinger-less Yamaha pipe outperformed the recommended reed pipe. When temps & air density returned to normal (relative to the rest of the year), the recommended reed pipe was the one to use. I chatted with RLV about this and they stated that they've heard of similar results before as well. So regardless of what paperwork recommends it's still best to try even that which is not recommended. Heck, who'd have ever thought that a Pro-80 would wind up being my best West Bend 820 pipe, even better than RLV's US-820 pipe? But yeah, paperwork is great for a starting point if there is any.
 
How about a basic G.H. 200 pipe on a MaC, 91-C using no flex, i.e. pipe and header touching, my buddy tried that and he was very hard to beat while the class was still running.
 
Back
Top