maxtorque clone or fun kart

foreverfaster

foreverfaster

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have not had the opportunity to have each of these in hand (new) nor can i find any markings on the many I've come in contact with to tell what the difference is between the max torque "clone" or "fun kart" clutch's... is it just a sales gimmick for an extra $30? someone please educate me as to the differance.
thanks :)
 
I don't know anything specific about Max Torque but I did run a Hillard mini bike clutch and you were lucky to get a season out of the drive gear. I'd spend the extra for a racing clutch as racing drum clutches are not that expensive and I'm a cheap skate.
 
foreverfaster said:
have not had the opportunity to have each of these in hand (new) nor can i find any markings on the many I've come in contact with to tell what the difference is between the max torque "clone" or "fun kart" clutch's... is it just a sales gimmick for an extra $30? someone please educate me as to the differance.
thanks :)
Click to expand...
If you're wanting to stay with the max torque clutches, I highly recommend the bully conversion kit. Saves ya from having to have 5 different clutches. Some of the max torques have the key integrated, and some still need the external key. I'm not sure which is which, the integrated key sure is nice.
 
Maybe i should have added more information. i think these clutches are junk. However. they are required in the miniwedge classes here in Michigan. i have been trying to tune them so they function better.. i have noted on every one of them, the weights, only contact partially and on an angle.. like the spring is not allowing the weights to move out evenly parallel with the casing. They collect dirt to the point the weights do not retract to disengage. they are a bear to assemble. i have had people mention that they bought the clone version, but i can't tell the difference. almost all of them have the bully conversion, some have larger vent holes in the drum... i'm just not in the mood to buy one of each ( $180 +) to tear them down and see if there is a difference. wish they would go to a hilliard clutch... much more user friendly
 
foreverfaster said:
Maybe i should have added more information. i think these clutches are junk. However. they are required in the miniwedge classes here in Michigan. i have been trying to tune them so they function better.. i have noted on every one of them, the weights, only contact partially and on an angle.. like the spring is not allowing the weights to move out evenly parallel with the casing. They collect dirt to the point the weights do not retract to disengage. they are a bear to assemble. i have had people mention that they bought the clone version, but i can't tell the difference. almost all of them have the bully conversion, some have larger vent holes in the drum... i'm just not in the mood to buy one of each ( $180 +) to tear them down and see if there is a difference. wish they would go to a hilliard clutch... much more user friendly
Click to expand...
To each their own, personally I like the max torque clutches at least for my predators. I've never had one have issues that weren't user error. I have a feeling most people aren't tearing them down so it is never an issue. You do you, but it might just be overkill.
 
I’ve cut the shoes, I’ve bought the different springs I’ve tried all I could and still hate those clutches. I’ll take the regular cheap Noram any day. Maybe you could sneak a Mongrel in. They look the part.
 
foreverfaster said:
have not had the opportunity to have each of these in hand (new) nor can i find any markings on the many I've come in contact with to tell what the difference is between the max torque "clone" or "fun kart" clutch's... is it just a sales gimmick for an extra $30? someone please educate me as to the differance.
thanks :)
Click to expand...

a true max torque on the silver shoe plate has 8 tab bends around the hub and they always have a number stamped on silver shoe plate
 
jaymancds said:
To each their own, personally I like the max torque clutches at least for my predators. I've never had one have issues that weren't user error. I have a feeling most people aren't tearing them down so it is never an issue. You do you, but it might just be overkill.
Click to expand...
Bringing up old thread,
We have to run a max torque clutch 12 tooth for the Predator series out here. After the 212 race Sunday which we finished 2nd (thanks to your help on the tank) I took the clutch apart and noticed its only using less than 1/2 of the shoe. On an angle like ForeverFaster stated.
I didn't cut the shoes & we're running a black spring.
Ran 75 laps of practice on Friday & approx 250 racing on Sunday with numerous restarts. It took off well, but lets make it better.
 
I will have to take a picture of my drum when I get it off because I talk my clutch apart every weekend and the drum on the max torque has a contact patch that is very small. It works fair but I am upgrading over the winter.
 
The one thing thats supposed to help is cutting the shoes in half .
More segments more contact .
A bell that isn't bell shaped would be good , generally they are bigger at the top or open side .
 
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