Measuring/Setting Caster and Camber

Skidude

Skidude

Member
Should the kart frame be level, or should the kart be on a level surface with the stagger that will be run at the track when checking or setting caster and camber?
 
Caster i dont think it would matter much . Depending on your actual need . If you want exactly 12* in race trim then it needs to be in as raced condition .

Camber should be in as raced condition on a level surface .
 
Better results are to set everything up on level scales , driver in the kart in full race gear hands on wheel. Steering wheel locked. Caster is usually not actually a measured setting, Most just use the marks on the L block.
 
One Fast Kat said:
Better results are to set everything up on level scales , driver in the kart in full race gear hands on wheel. Steering wheel locked. Caster is usually not actually a measured setting, Most just use the marks on the L block.
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I always tell people that it’s good to check caster with an actual gauge, I have found a lot of carts where the factory markings on the blocks and the numbers that they should be don’t come close, sometimes three or 4° difference
 
JPMKarting said:
I always tell people that it’s good to check caster with an actual gauge, I have found a lot of carts where the factory markings on the blocks and the numbers that they should be don’t come close, sometimes three or 4° difference
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how do you actually use a caster gauge? I have one and tried using it but dont think im getting the right readings.
 
The easiest way to measure caster is to not use a caster gauge. Instead, when the kart is on your scales use a digital level or digital protractor and measure the angle of the L block. To use a caster gauge you must be able to accurately measure the rotation of the steered wheels, 20 degrees one way (from center) and then 20 degrees (from center) in the opposite direction. Unless you have turn plates, that is difficult to do accurately. And by the way JPM is correct, DO NOT depend upon the factory markings on the frame unless the markings have been verified.
 
zzofcin6 said:
how do you actually use a caster gauge? I have one and tried using it but dont think im getting the right readings.
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Its semi complicated . Simple terms . Put it on adjust to x* turn wheel 20* read gauge , turn wheel opposite direction 20* read gauge add or subtract . Im sure thats not totally right but hand grenade close..:eek:
 
An angle finder would be much faster and simpler . It also has to be a camber / caster gauge. Not a straight camber gauge .
 
This is what I used to measure caster.
 

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JPMKarting said:
I always tell people that it’s good to check caster with an actual gauge, I have found a lot of carts where the factory markings on the blocks and the numbers that they should be don’t come close, sometimes three or 4° difference
Click to expand...
Last time I actually used a level to check caster it showed 6 left 12 right on the center marks. I feel like maybe the front stagger had something to do with that?
 
hotelcalifornia said:
Last time I actually used a level to check caster it showed 6 left 12 right on the center marks. I feel like maybe the front stagger had something to do with that?
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It is normal to run different caster on L and R. 6 and 12 is probably the caster starting point recommended by your kart builder.
 
Yikes! A lot of good info here and a lot of misleading info here. Plus some in between. So, caster and front stagger go hand-in-hand. Meaning if you have say LF caster at 6 and RF caster at 10 with say 1.25" front stagger, then flip the caster and keep the stagger and make sure the setup remains the same. You will find a very different effect.

It all has to do with the front-end geometry and how the chassis "sees" the manual weight transfer. A higher LF caster setting with say 2" of front stagger will allow the kart to accelerate harder of the turn without bogging the engine whereas a lesser or normal caster setting will bog the kart off the turn.

Just think about it.

Mike McCarty
The "Original" Chassis Manual
 
msquared said:
Yikes! A lot of good info here and a lot of misleading info here. Plus some in between. So, caster and front stagger go hand-in-hand. Meaning if you have say LF caster at 6 and RF caster at 10 with say 1.25" front stagger, then flip the caster and keep the stagger and make sure the setup remains the same. You will find a very different effect.

It all has to do with the front-end geometry and how the chassis "sees" the manual weight transfer. A higher LF caster setting with say 2" of front stagger will allow the kart to accelerate harder of the turn without bogging the engine whereas a lesser or normal caster setting will bog the kart off the turn.

Just think about it.

Mike McCarty
The "Original" Chassis Manual
Click to expand...
You said keep the same stagger in the first paragraph, and then said add stagger in the 2nd?
 
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