Track Tac

Most effective way to smooth out a track?

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puttinginwork

New member
Looking to the experts for answers.

We have a backyard track that we just got 20 tri-axle loads of clay for. We've created a good base and drive-able track so far, but we're seeking that perfectly smooth track that I see at so many of the public race tracks.

Our main issue is a wavy formation where we've spread the new clay.

To work it in we have a 3pt tractor, with a blade, soil pulverizer, and disker. Also we have a tire triangle and heavy I beam to drag behind a truck.

Any tips on a process to make that perfectly smooth track would be greatly appreciated.
 
Gonna be tough to get it table top smooth without a motor grader, but to utilize what ya got best, provided ya have the profile you want now meaning flat, banked some Disc it up run the pulverizer through it redisc it break it up as fine as you can, then take your blade and beam angle it to carry material up the track bottom to top, then top to bottom and keep working it numerous times till it's looking good and smooth, then track it in with something with a little weight to it half lapping tire track as ya go down, then water it with a good even watering as soon as you can walk on it WITHOUT it picking up on your feet re-run it in Again with something pretty heavy with a turf or smoother tread get it good and tight, then drag beam more up and down just keep smoothing it up, once ya get it smooth Water the night before ya race then run it in with a car or pick-up with smooth tread, If you have a BIG old tractor tire laying around hook a cable or chain to it and drag behind the pick-up running it in on race day while it has some moisture in it that will help smooth it out as well. Then re mist it let it set and do final run in with karts.
once ya get it smooth it's all about timing and volume the proper amount of moisture and the proper time to get on it, Before you disc it up good MAKE SURE you have atleast a 2 day window of NO rain, If it rains hard on ya while it's open it will take a week to dry.
 
Pave it, suuuuurrre. lol

On our dirt track, we have some old farm equipment, a disc and chisel point plow/drag, along with a tractor and blade. The chisel plow drag works well behind some that can get some speed. It takes time. We do drive a truck on it after the initial season prep coming out of the Wisconsin winters. Our clay is a bit silty and dries out quickly, but does get fairly smooth. The track gets noticeably better as it ages, first year it got a little rough and would pothole out in areas to the point we would have to stop and fix those areas, second year a little less, third year better yet, it progresses as everything gets compacted more and more over time.
 
Racing Psychosis said:
Pave it, suuuuurrre. lol

On our dirt track, we have some old farm equipment, a disc and chisel point plow/drag, along with a tractor and blade. The chisel plow drag works well behind some that can get some speed. It takes time. We do drive a truck on it after the initial season prep coming out of the Wisconsin winters. Our clay is a bit silty and dries out quickly, but does get fairly smooth. The track gets noticeably better as it ages, first year it got a little rough and would pothole out in areas to the point we would have to stop and fix those areas, second year a little less, third year better yet, it progresses as everything gets compacted more and more over time.
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Yep, can definitely attest to the better as it ages part. Our back straightaway used to sit at a slightly higher elevation than our front stretch. Therefore we didn't have to put any of the new clay in that part, and the track is superb in that area, smooth and as hard as concrete.
 
if you drag an old tractor tire, cut holes in the tread area and loop the chain through there....that way, your not cutting into the track surface that your trying to smooth....visit any local paved or dirt track and ask for any used up slicks...teams usually throw these away and would probably give them to you if you told them what your using them for. mount them on old rims and then put them on the track packing truck or car. we did that and we ran in reverse of the normal way and it seemed to pack nicely. when you water, water from the top down...most tracks that i've been to, water the other way and all it does is create mud holes at the bottom and dry slick at the top. a couple of the tracks around here used to spray the track down with a mixture of tide soap and water....seemed like the soap (not a whole lot!) would bind with the soil and help it hold together....i'd definitely get a few pump srayers, fill them and keep them handy for the corner workers to spray down any spots that looked like they were dry slicking...sheeps foot is great for the initial packing after discing the track...did that to one track when scott bloomquist was here....but you have to be careful and not let the racers pack it in initially.....they (me included) have a tendency to pack in just the line that they want to race and it turns into a single groove race track....can't pass worth a poo when it's that way....get some road cones and when you start packing the track with the karts keep them up top and gradually work in the bottom...give the track more than one groove and racers will love you for it....

other than that...if you can find someone that has a grader, that would go a long way to smoothing and setting your banking. one old farmer near the track i flaggged at would come out about three times in a season and cut the track in...did it during the week and by race time, it was smooth, fast and fun!!
 
Water, roll in, cut & roll, repeat. Water, roll in, cut & roll, repeat................infinity. If you truely have clay, you'll be playing with timing of baking in the sun, and the smearing properties when wet. Truthfully, you will need to have a blade to make it work cause nothing else will be heavy enough to cut or smear it. If you want it perfect - a patient blade operator is a must.
 
we use the rain to help us in the summer. we just got a good rain. 2 days from now I will put the blade on the tractor. Start from the bottom and work my way to the top. And then back down again. Once Ive done this I will drag a big grate behind my truck and smooth out any ridges. Once that is done we will put 250 gallons of water on the track. Just a tank in the back of the truck with pvc out the back about 12ft wide. Once it gets where its not sticky we will pack it in. Big plus to have some smooth tires. Or a older kart with 4 big tires. After that we turn the karts loose. Its a true 1/8 mile clay backyard track. After the 6 or 7 karts run for awhile with the pinks and blues she will blacken up and be smooth as silk. Took us awhile to figure out what works best for us. Then add water as need to keep it from dusting up. Good Luck
 
All good advice. I took racing promoters advice in what I did yesterday. Going to do the same thing today as well. Supposed to get some evening rain so we will see what that does to the surface after I get done with it.
 
puttinginwork said:
All good advice. I took racing promoters advice in what I did yesterday. Going to do the same thing today as well. Supposed to get some evening rain so we will see what that does to the surface after I get done with it.
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as long as ya got it sealed some the RAIN will only help, after rain is done as soon as it wont pick up Run it in again just keep working it you'll get it.

Good Luck !!
 
I use to hear StayPuff fabric softener is put into the water to help it hold together, seal and keep it from dusting up. Anyone else ever heard of it being used?
 
paulkish said:
I use to hear StayPuff fabric softener is put into the water to help it hold together, seal and keep it from dusting up. Anyone else ever heard of it being used?
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the cheap white dish liquid will help it retain moisture
 
Is the soap introduced in the discing stage so it gets worked in? Is the goal to create "porosity" so the moisture stays in the clay?
 
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