New kart Hilliard Flame question

Hi all!

Brought home a used Alpha LO206 kart and I've been prepping it for its first runs. It was quite well kept, but I'm wanting to set all the maintenance details to ground zero as well as learn how to do the maintenance before just dropping it on the track and flogging it.

I took apart the clutch to clean it, and when I reassembled it based upon my notes from disassembly and lightly snugging up the bold (pre torque), I found that the clutch drum didn't spin...trying to turn it caused the driveshaft to turn, too. From videos I'd watched, most folks would spin the housing merrily after torque-ing the bolt in place. So, I looked online for an exploded diagram...found one...and my clutch assembly is missing the oil/grease trap and the steel washer that goes between the trap and the drum.

So - this brings up two questions: a) is this a viable setup? b) is this maybe a way they were cheating to cause the clutch to have a little more drag as I would expect the power of the engine to overcome the drag caused by missing this part with the kart sitting on its wheels.

Planning on buying a new clutch now to have a correct setup, regardless. Strangely, in the voluminous parts stash I have, there are none of these oil/grease traps...it would be weird to have tossed them all, I would think...

Cheers!
 
You must have the grease trap installed to be legal. Info on Hilliard clutches is not the best. And there are multiple different Hilliard Flame installation videos and installation sheets that vary. They could do a lot better in my opinion. The Fire installation instructions are the closest to being correct. Also, using Bully conversions/drivers vs various original Hilliard drums/drivers will affect your installation.

If the drum does not turn freely, you something in the stack of parts installed wrong.
 
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Many thanks - been reading more posts here and came across that this was a semi-recent rule change, so the previous owner of my kart just didn't have this rule when he was running. That concerns me since my clutch drum SHOULD still spin merrily and it doesn't based on videos I've seen online. However, based on documents I have found online, I am not missing anything in the assembly other than the trap and the thin washer to separate the trap and the drum. Have to fiddle with it I guess. :)

Cheers!
 
Don't worry too much about the missing grease trap. I never ran them in my Hilliards before the rule change.

If it isn't spinning freely you put it back together wrong somehow. You should be able to spin it with your fingers. Either something out of order or your missing a spacer. Like you said your missing the thin washer in between the trap and drum. A spacer washer was probably stuck to the bearing or hub and you just didn't notice it when you took it apart and dropped it. You could also have the shoes rubbing the drum somehow. Like if you have to shoes installed wrong or spring installed wrong. If it is the drum rubbing something you should hear and feel it with your hand. If it does it when you torque down the bolt it is likely a missing spacer.

Sometimes you have to space the clutch out farther on the shaft or put washers on the bolt on the outside of the crankshaft to get the correct play. You may also have to put a spacer inside the drum and hub. You'll probably just have to play with it a bit and try different shims.
 
A 5/16" SAE flat washer will fit in the clutch bushing on the end of the shaft as a spacer. It gives the big washer something to seat down on instead of locking the clutch. If that's the kind of clutch that needs the hub locked to the shaft with the end bolt then that's a whole different story.
 
You could be hitting it too hard with the impact wrench and crushing the inner bearing against the end of the drum. That inner bearing can become slightly mushroomed and cause that. Just sand the bearing so it has a slight tapper. Make sure the end of the drum isn't extending out beyond the bearing surface. If you make the whole assembly finger tight, will it spin freely? If it only tightens up when you torque it down, look for something being crushed and deformed.
Ask me how I know that???!!!
Clark Gaynor Sr.
 
I suspect that what Clark is saying is your case.
There should be a radius washer on the crank BEFORE installing the clutch (especially if mounting inboard.)
Lack of this washer allows the inner race of the clutch driver to be forced up onto the radius machined into the crank at the shoulder, where the two different diameters meet.
Install the radius washer, then shim the clutch properly at the end of the crank. With the LO206, the clutch should be tight on the crank (ie no endplay.)

If you need a grease trap or washers, give us a call - we've got plenty in stock.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Thanks to all for your notes. I am learning as I go...so I didn't really pay attention to how the clutch behaved when I got the kart. I was just tearing everything apart so I could learn to put it all back together. :) I will check on all the notes above, though I do feel that I may be missing a washer (something dropped, as noted). Cheers!
 
Your title says Flame clutch, the Flame does not come with a grease trap so it is not needed is it?
The Flame didn't initially come with the grease trap and it really wasn't necessary. The Fire had the grease trap. For a while now maybe a year or two the Flame comes with the trap and needs to used per rules after the great clutch fiasco of 2019. If you use an older flame without the trap it must be upgraded to include the trap. About $6.
 
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