Newby to uas not karting need advice

Why aren't all you 250f and 450f pilots putting rekluse clutches on your machines? Seems like it'd be all the benefits of trannyless (except weight) with the benefit of still using the tranny... :) Just curious. If they make one for my 125 I may try it out, but I've only seen 'em on 4 cycles.... I may try to find a 1-1/4" Hegar sprag for the rear.... TTaft -- you should make some of them -- everybody seems to want 'em and they're outta' production = instant market!! :)
 
Well, I think what Taft is really getting at is the multiplied engine breaking through the transmission. Different gear ratios obviously show the engine breaking more. So if you eliminate that, regardless of the actual clutch not disengaging, the effects are far less dramatic. You're only dealing with the actual engine breaking, not the multiplied breaking. That's the only thing I can figure out. But, I've found it quite manageable with a little foot action, lol.
 
Ted Hamilton said:
Why aren't all you 250f and 450f pilots putting rekluse clutches on your machines? Seems like it'd be all the benefits of trannyless (except weight) with the benefit of still using the tranny... :) Just curious. If they make one for my 125 I may try it out, but I've only seen 'em on 4 cycles.... I may try to find a 1-1/4" Hegar sprag for the rear.... TTaft -- you should make some of them -- everybody seems to want 'em and they're outta' production = instant market!! :)
Click to expand...
http://www.hegar4.com/zc150/index.p...id=213&zenid=4ae7d3e0410cce977cd50a8dd8eedb0d
Says they have 12 in stock?
 
Must be they did another run. :) Nice....except for the pricing. :) The roadracing shifter guys put their axle gear on these so when the engine seizes they don't do a instant 180 at 140mph....
 
ABR #69 said:
I'd like to try a 450 or 250 without a trans, just to see the difference. But, I won't be gutting mine anytime soon.

With the lower clutch engagement it made it back into the corner? Am I reading that wrong?
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Your reading it correct. I have a tranny less 450. I kept dropping the engagement rpm till I had it just above idl e. The 450 has so much grunt it didn't care how low it came in. But when I went in the corner it had 0 flash. And the kart acted like it had direct drive. It broke the rear tires loose . it was a matter of driving it different. Not that it couldn't be driven that way. The kart clutch does flash slip into them even if your rpm is above engagement. They drive in without the engine braking and then they flash the rpm back up into what ever you've tuned them into for best center off power. Its all I'm saying. Its just different and more kart specific.
 
I see what you're saying about backing the engagement down now. It had to drop to a much lower rpm to actually disengage the clutch. Which made it more direct drive.

But, the rest is interesting about the flash disengagement. I can't prove or disprove it. I would however like to see what some of the clutch builders here have to say on that.
 
I engage mine at 3000 rpm. Just enough so if I spin it disengages. I think you are just asking for trouble trying to engage them at higher rpms. The abuse the clutch would see would drastically shorten the life span. None of these motors are underpowered so theres no need to get them higher into the torque curve before engagement. I also wonder if the dissengagement at higher rpms in the middle of the turn would upset the chassis and cause more handling issues.
 
The 450 can handle lower rpm engagements. Where you'll get into proof of clutch flash is in the 250 2 stroke. A clutch setting for my pipes set at 6,000 the engine will lay a little flat then hit the pipe about 500 rpm up. Then hang on. Now set the clutch up those extra 500 rpms and when you pick the throttle up it'll flash the clutch right into the desired pipe rpm. Basically on a kart clutch when you lift off the throttle you'll unload the levers slightly this allows for the flash or slip needed to keep the engine deceleration from braking the karts forward momentum. Like you say You'd notice the difference when you get to drive one.
 
Ted Hamilton said:
Why aren't all you 250f and 450f pilots putting rekluse clutches on your machines? Seems like it'd be all the benefits of trannyless (except weight) with the benefit of still using the tranny... :) Just curious. If they make one for my 125 I may try it out, but I've only seen 'em on 4 cycles.... I may try to find a 1-1/4" Hegar sprag for the rear.... TTaft -- you should make some of them -- everybody seems to want 'em and they're outta' production = instant market!! :)
Click to expand...

Let me first start off by saying I had to work very hard with Rekluse to get the RPM engagement of the core EXP even close to what a standard kart clutch is. It's still not what I want it to be but they don't make the weights/spings to do that. I have tried my 450 with the Rekluse and with the standard clutch.....They is IMHO absolutely no difference in the two. Mind you it could be the inability to get the "correct" engagement of the Rekluse.....but it does make it nice when it stays running when you spin out :)
 
I've have all these clutches ,and the all have there place stock, slipper and rekluse .It's kinda like Tim said , driving style and getting use to what you have or comfortable with what you have. Some of these motor brake way harder than others , can't really even compare some. Some you don't really notice and others "you better be ready when you lift" because they will lock the wheels and if you don't get back in gas you spin. Driver preference I guess.
 
Ted Hamilton said:
Must be they did another run. :) Nice....except for the pricing. :) The roadracing shifter guys put their axle gear on these so when the engine seizes they don't do a instant 180 at 140mph....
Click to expand...

When you make your order, just be a pal and order two. Then send the other my way and I'll test I out on a 450 for you. ;)
 
It's going to be tought to get the hub little on two haha but I think I have found a motor yzf450 need a rebuild but it's cheap I think I said that right it is a bike motor not atv comes with everything carb,pipe, rad, and all now to find a mount and I've decided to take 1st and 4th and5th out
 
Might want to check and see which gear is closest to 1:1 ratio as that wil be the gear you'd want to try to run in. So do that research and then figure out which gears to take out. I don't know how the YFZ is, but you might not be able to take certain ones out. I'd suggest going with aftermarket whatever is needed I the rebuild. But, mainly to bulletproof it. Not really add power, if you get some added power it's never bad. Or if you want to build it up! I can't say anything, I've got everything by the kitchen sink in mine. LOL!

Also, Bhetrick10 has 7075 aluminum split 520 gears, they're good! Also, I won't run anything smaller then the 520 chain. Those engines have that chain for a reason.
 
Ok here's what I just came up with it is a yz450f with five speed ,deff need to rebuild and my mx buddy said to do the rekluse clutch ,run a stock pipe and carb maybe convert to alky ,so now I need to find a mount or build one find the rear gear hub and figure out ratios ,oh and how am I going to start this thing
 
Lol, the gear hub is just a brake rotor hub with four bolts in I like what holds the rotor. Exactly the same! Click the link to the guy I mentioned above and he'll hook you up with gears and hub.

I'd try it on gas and then figure out if you want more power, lol! I don't know if QRC makes a YFZ mount, but they're fairly easy to fabricate if you're mechanically inclined. If not, there are a few around here that build them.
I don't remember the number now, but ReneeAngel could probably point you to the guy in Florida that will make the case and adapter to start it with a gear reduction starter. Or you can get creative as I and others have.

I use a strap around the tire right now, but pushing it requires a push vehicle. Or you can fab a stand to adapt to the kick starter which I might end up doing if I can't get a hold of my electric starter.
 
I've seen them start them with a strap I think I may do that and qrc does have a mount but does it fit our type if chassis , and I figured if I wanted jawa horsepower alky would be the key
 
Could fit, depends on the rail configuration. 98 banshee, I think small tube chassis. Hrmm, could be an issue. I think they sell one for both large and small tube. Just have to get the correct one, call them and ask.
 
If you switch to alky do you have a big enough fuel tank? As for a slipper clutch get a Birky, they have pulled my fat but around for years with some pretty descent HP. 5 disk 6 spring wet clutch that can take all you can give it.
 
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