Non bearing side cover motor

I think KTD doesnt want the crank to spin Inside of the inner bearing race.
It's not a slop fit bearing. It's a slip fit bearing. Serves the same purpose as a press fit in this application but otherwise easily to remove. I'm sure one could lap it in it it makes em feel better. Js.
 
See what I started! I guess its time to get out the machinists handbook.I would think a slip fit would be a hard push on maybe a tap with a wooden mallet. I would think a press fit would be at least a 25psi hydraulic push. Just guessing.
Slip fit is fine. I chucked the crankshafts in a lathe and used emery cloth to polish them so they just slipped on. Worked fine in 10,000+ rpm opens.
I've had catastrophic failures due to cranks, rods, pistons, timing gears, blocks, cams, etc- but I've never had a failure due to a side cover bearing or a flywheel side crank bearing for that matter.
 
More clearance for oil, dimpling can help, add'l oil hole on top of the bushing. All will help, but the simplest solution (and long term) is to replace the sidecover with a ball bearing one. Slip fit a bearing to the crank and you're good to go as much rpm and for as long as you desire.


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Thanks I believe you answered a question I was looking for answers for, can I update an old model 13 to a ball bearing cover, without changing cranks?
 
Thanks I believe you answered a question I was looking for answers for, can I update an old model 13 to a ball bearing cover, without changing cranks?
You will need to turn down the PTO end to fit the bearing for the bearing sidecover. It will not fit unless you turn it down on a lathe or are real patient with a piece of sandpaper. (LOL)
 
You will need to turn down the PTO end to fit the bearing for the bearing sidecover. It will not fit unless you turn it down on a lathe or are real patient with a piece of sandpaper. (LOL)
Sounds like I'll need to find a used crank that takes a pto bearing, or maybe just change to a bushing side cover with the four bolts for a torque converter backing plate.
 
if the bearing is not press on it doing nothing
How much benefit do you think your bearing is if the crank slips on the inner bore?
If the bearing turns that hard, no benifit.
All a ball or roller bearing does is support the load on smaller individual surfaces supported by oil wedges for less drag.
Just as well be running a bushing with the correct clearances to use the wedge of oil to support the crank
See rod bearing to understand my point.
Some debates simply amaze me.

Lmao

Edit

If you are trying to support crank deflection, the bushing is again superior, because of the distance covered by the support.

To exceed this with a ball bearing, a double bearing is required.
 
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I've never seen a one peice bearing assembly press fit on anything, other than the outer race being press fit into a case ,only tapered Timken bearings that use a separate press fit race, as used in an automotive axle application , can you even see the timing mark on the crank gear to time your cam with the bearing on the crank?
 
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I've never seen a one peice bearing assembly press fit on anything, other than the outer race being press fit into a case ,only tapered Timken bearings that use a separate press fit race, as used in an automotive axle application , can you even see the timing mark on the crank gear to time your cam with the bearing on the crank?
No, usually not. Some have a "dot" on the timing gear and you will not see it with the bearing in place. Other timing gears have a line that extends to the end of the teeth -- you may or may not see that mark with the ball bearing in place.
The crank counterweight usually has a "dot" in it that aligns with the cam timing mark, so even if you do have a pressed on bearing, you can go by that.
Personally, slip fit the bearing -- there are advantages.
 
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