oil compatability

I have used Cool Power medium green for several years and have had no issues of any kind with it . I do add a touch of Marvel Mystery Oil in with my oil changes . I have a test motor that I ran that has probably 125 nights of races on it , and it still fires up and runs pretty strong . I took it apart to check it out a couple of times and other than a light hone and replacing the side cover gasket , nothing was done to it . It is out dated now , and needs to be brought up to today's standards . Just saying , I have had no issues with Cool Power , and I know that wasn't the question asked , just adding my 2 cents , lol
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That's my problem with it. PAG's obviously lubricate but I hate
to pull a valve cover and see light rust.
The problem with PAG oil. It will not allow for the dilution of any additive package. So it will not stop rust. Most are Hygroscopic and some are not. But they will not deteriorate (Hydrolysis) with small quantities of water or alcohol content. Other than that it has been used for many years and won many championships. Anyone who has raced for years has probably used a PAG oil.
Some oils will last longer than others. 4T and other oils will last longer and prevent rust better than a PAG oil. But a lot of people will still use a pag oil with great success.
Surprisingly some Automotive racing oils that are designed for alcohol racing are PAG oils simply because they will tolerate the methanol better than other oils. and still maintain the lubrication of the engine. And the old wisdom is I don't care what oil you use, Just how often you change it! Is true.
 
Cool power claims to have additive's .
Found a half gallon of cool power gold .
mixed it with dyno k .
Initial assesment its going to mix .
 
What is recommended to combat rust for engines that may be in storage ? Adding a little ZDDP to the oil ? We use FHS.

Have a few ‘shelf queens’ I’d like to protect.
 
First thing would be is it pag or pao .
Then does it have addatives .
Isn't zddp a pressure addative ?
As stated proper storage . Can't hurt .
Now there are a couple things i Saw yesterday . That bring up questions .
I have parts in a bucket that rusted , parts in cardboard boxs that didn't . Same enviroment and location .
Is a seasond engine less likley too rust then a new in the box engine ?
Kind of like seasoning a cast iron pan , the oil gets burnt into the pores .
I pulled the valve cover off my tr6 car yesterday its been in storage since 1978 . No special care . Parked it and never got back to it . No rust in the cover or on the valve train . It did have the seasond look . Valve tips were still nice and shiny no rust on the springs .
Unlike the new unran predator i am working on .
 
Cool power gold with castor and dyno k looks like a complete mix .
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Anyone know what FHS oils are? Are they PAO or PAG based? Maybe pure Esters? I've always liked their oils and seemed to have great luck with them. The old 62r will work in anything!

I've also seen pure, clear ester oil in the AC section at major parts stores. Can it be ran in a karting engine? I've always been told pure ester oils are top of the line synthetics, Redline oils are all based on esters.
 
I have a engine that is all gummed inside. Stored with racing oil in it in a basement, I guess that is what the problem was?? Anyone know a good way to get the gummy junk out of the crankcase.
 
Brake clean , carb clean , mineral spirits or your favorite solvent .
Defanitly eye protection even when using a spray can .
 
Oil . Racing oil or regular motor oil is a common question .
I have ran both types variuos brands .
Rust is an issue .
Tonight i decide to disassemble an engine the driver put together , in has to be 2000-2001 . Its been laying around with the other stuff .
Flathead , pull the side cover , no rust , none . Crank , cam , lifters, valves all in pristine condition . Only a ounce or so of oil left in it .
Even the rod bolt heads no rust .
I can only guess it had fhs 62r or rottela i used both at the time .
Unlike some of the ones with racing oil , which rusted up .
If your engine gets regular rebuilds maybe not a big deal .
Anti rust/corosion properties should be a concern if not .
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The white oil is white 24 hrs later . The mix has seperated .
I have changed my opinion of oil .
Bumpy stated (I wouldn't run PAG Oil if it was Free ) !
I am in total agreement, much less pay top Dollar for it .
The worst thing is no rust protection .
Pag will also attracts water similar to the way that brake fluid does. It is a oil designed for refrigerant use for AC compressors
 
I - BEAM . H Beam is for the big stuff .
 

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