Old 5 hp Briggs & Stratton

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vtdad28

Member
Anyone have any experience with older 5hp Briggs & Stratton? I really wanted a 100cc 2 stroke to put on my kart but I found 3 older Briggs that they said were racing engines. Alcohol carburetors, couple gas tanks, digitron cylinder head temp rpm and speed sensor, clutch and flywheel, and some extra parts for pretty cheap. $150, Is it worth it? What’s the top speed on them when reasonably geared? They also have no shrouds
 
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assumimg they are flatheads . Your local area may have classes for them .
150 for 3 is pretty good . Provided they are in reasonable shape . shrouds could cost you 5 dollars or 30 dollars or even free.
Your end goal and skill set are considerations . also if its a euro racing kart / sprint style , a 4 stroke may not fit well due too the rear gear and chain clearence issues with the seat strut . inside drive vs outside drive .
 
vtdad28 said:
Anyone have any experience with older 5hp Briggs & Stratton? I really wanted a 100cc 2 stroke to put on my kart but I found 3 older Briggs that they said were racing engines. Alcohol carburetors, couple gas tanks, digitron cylinder head temp rpm and speed sensor, clutch and flywheel, and some extra parts for pretty cheap. $150, Is it worth it? What’s the top speed on them when reasonably geared? They also have no shrouds
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Sounds like you bought them right.
Have them rebuilt and have fun with them.
We still work on plenty of them. I'm sleeving a flathead in the shop today!
Give us a call if we can be of any help.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
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34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
vtdad28 said:
Anyone have any experience with older 5hp Briggs & Stratton? I really wanted a 100cc 2 stroke to put on my kart but I found 3 older Briggs that they said were racing engines. Alcohol carburetors, couple gas tanks, digitron cylinder head temp rpm and speed sensor, clutch and flywheel, and some extra parts for pretty cheap. $150, Is it worth it? What’s the top speed on them when reasonably geared? They also have no shrouds
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Post pics of them so we can tell you which blocks they are.
 

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Flatlives said:
Left block is a first generation tiller
Middle block is an I/C
Right block is a raptor
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Is one better than the other? Are they junk? Worth trying to save or more worth what is being sold with them, (sprockets, carburetors, etc)
 
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vtdad28 said:
Is one better than the other? Are they junk? Worth trying to save or more worth what is being sold with them, (sprockets, carburetors, etc)
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The only engine that would be worth building for racing would be the raptor block. But for the price the raptor block, clutch and tach might be worth that price.
 
flattop1 said:
Hopefully you haven't bought them yet . Judging form outward appearance it's going too be costly .
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I didn’t pull the trigger yet, was going to offer $100 as it comes with 4 sprockets, tach, few carbs, etc but if the engines aren’t worth it for the most part then I’m not going for the 2 hr drive for sprockets
 
vtdad28 said:
I didn’t pull the trigger yet, was going to offer $100 as it comes with 4 sprockets, tach, few carbs, etc but if the engines aren’t worth it for the most part then I’m not going for the 2 hr drive for sprockets
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The clutch and tach alone would be worth 100 bucks. Like I said the raptor block would be the only 1 I would have rebuilt. That block alone as long as internals aren't junk is worth 50 dollars
 
Nothing wrong with the oem blocks. As far as Raptor blocks, until you get to the kit R4 blocks (which none of these are) there's not enough different in them from the oem stuff.
If indeed they were all alcohol racing engines, they'll be built similarly with legal pulsa-jet carbs & tanks, etc.
You could take a quick look inside each once you get there and see if the lifter gallies have been welded (reinforced) for slapper cam usage. That would be an easy indicator as to what might have been done to them at some point in time.
I'd say they're worth the gamble, but if money is an issue, step away from them and just pick up a Harbor Freight Predator and run it as long as it will.
Personally, I prefer old school flatheads, even if they cost a bit more.

If you were to have one professionally rebuilt and updated - you'd likely be looking in the $5-600 range ($250 +parts.) Not knowing anything about them, you might get away with few parts and be up and running as cheap or cheaper than any other class. If you're just wanting to tool around in the backyard, then just throw a new diaphragm and spark plug at them and go have fun.
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Nothing wrong with the oem blocks. As far as Raptor blocks, until you get to the kit R4 blocks (which none of these are) there's not enough different in them from the oem stuff.
If indeed they were all alcohol racing engines, they'll be built similarly with legal pulsa-jet carbs & tanks, etc.
You could take a quick look inside each once you get there and see if the lifter gallies have been welded (reinforced) for slapper cam usage. That would be an easy indicator as to what might have been done to them at some point in time.
I'd say they're worth the gamble, but if money is an issue, step away from them and just pick up a Harbor Freight Predator and run it as long as it will.
Personally, I prefer old school flatheads, even if they cost a bit more.

If you were to have one professionally rebuilt and updated - you'd likely be looking in the $5-600 range ($250 +parts.) Not knowing anything about them, you might get away with few parts and be up and running as cheap or cheaper than any other class. If you're just wanting to tool around in the backyard, then just throw a new diaphragm and spark plug at them and go have fun.
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I’m trying to stick to a budget but honestly really don’t want to go with a predator so might just have to take the gamble as i prefer old school reliability. He said they were all alcohol engines but who knows so Thankyou for the tip about the reinforced lifter gallies. I’m no expert on engines so I guess this may be my budget way into learning especially if there are so many people building them. Starting in the backyard but hopefully going to get squared away to get on a track eventually! I really appreciate the incite and help. He did say he has a clutch and flywheel for one,2 tanks, 5 carbs, and said he may have some jets etc. I added a few pics of the stuff, i know there is the tach and speed sensor, spare heads, etc but what are the adapters? Is the plate a mount? What is the red piece? A guard or shield?
 

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vtdad28 said:
I’m trying to stick to a budget but honestly really don’t want to go with a predator so might just have to take the gamble as i prefer old school reliability. He said they were all alcohol engines but who knows so Thankyou for the tip about the reinforced lifter gallies. I’m no expert on engines so I guess this may be my budget way into learning especially if there are so many people building them. Starting in the backyard but hopefully going to get squared away to get on a track eventually! I really appreciate the incite and help. He did say he has a clutch and flywheel for one,2 tanks, 5 carbs, and said he may have some jets etc. I added a few pics of the stuff, i know there is the tach and speed sensor, spare heads, etc but what are the adapters? Is the plate a mount? What is the red piece? A guard or shield?
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Then consider having the machinework done professionally and do the assembly yourself. You'll save a bit of money that way and have the pride of knowing that you "built" it yourself.
And it looks like you'll have plenty of parts to keep it going for a while!
 
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