Box Stock

Open 212 Predator Parts Advise

C

Chez2001

New member
I am wrapping up the build of a 212 Predator “open” engine and am looking for guidance on the selection & purchase of two key components and an “overview” of the aftermarket parts I have already purchased. I have built & raced Tecumseh Star motors for the past five years but that kart count is dwindling so I want to switch to the “open” OHV class for the remainder of the 2014 schedule.
The track is a 1/6 mile flat dirt oval (Southern Gap Raceway, Grundy VA) I race 400 lb. senior class with a fully adjustable Cobra chassis on Burris slicks (pink & blue). I would like to limit my max RPM to around 6500, with a power band between 4500 & 6000 rpm. Here’s what I have assembled to date.
Stock “deburred” 212 Predator Block
6236 ARC Billet Rod, HF Predator 3.595" X .490" (stock length)
11132P94 Wiseco Piston 2.756" X .640 (stock bore)
6521 ARC New "Short" Heavy Duty Wrist Pin
ARCDJ-1116P Cylinder Head for Predator - HI COMP 18cc
Raceseng VTK3 RSP-13-852 Valve Train Kit /w Adjust Push Rods/ Rev3 Roller Rockers
NR Racing 27mm & 25mm Stainless Valves
Competition Carbs 330 Taltson w/ billet intake
Raceseng Adjustable Timing Kit RSP16-063
Raceseng Billet Lifters RSP 13-350
Raceseng Billet Finned Flywheel
ARC Billet Side cover
NR Racing RTV Header
Bully 2 Disc 6 Spring Clutch

Here are my questions:
Does anyone see any mismatch / conflict / shortfall with the combination of components listed above?
Using the parameters listed (track size, max RPM, Weight class) what is the best brand & size cam to buy?
Given the cost of an aftermarket steel crankshaft ($400 - $500) is the stock crank sufficient for the 6500 rpm load? I know that is a loaded question, any internal parts issue will ultimately trash the crank. I accept the risk/reward for a catastrophic failure of any aftermarket piece….as long as it isn’t an inherent weak link…i.e. a stock crank.

Thanks for any input…The next race is Aug 19
 
My immediate (?) is....do you have the 'old-style' Predator, or the newer 'Hemi' version...mod #60363? The 'old-style' is prone too separating the 'barrel' portion from the 'bottom-end' when pressed for power and rpm whereby the newer version seems too hold its own (via new/improved castings). You don't specify what cam ur going too run, but (trust me), 7000-7500rpm is EZ to find w/ur combination. The Billet Side Cover is a GOOD investment, however...the Flywheel side is open too challenge.
 
I've got the new style 60363. I didn't specify a cam because that was one of my ?'s. Is the stock crank OK for 6500 RPM & what cam should I use. I have a cam from OMB Warehouse but I'm not sure if it fits my requirements (1/6 mile dirt oval, power band between 4500 & 6500) It is a Dyno Cam Grind # F-275 Recommended for Modified Classes
.270 lift on both intake & exhaust
Intake open 54 degree BTDC, close 90 degrees ABDC
Exhaust open 92 degrees BBDC, close 53 degrees ATDC
 
the crank is a good one...seen hemi bottom ends turn 9K and nary a problem....of course, i saw one turn in 10,491 (recalled on the tach!) where everything BUT the crank had decided to give up....i wouldn't worry any about the crank....JMHO!!
 
The cam you have is a good one, and your stock crank is more than capable of handling the kind of power you are wanting to throw at it, go for it! That build looks to be a good choice from what i can see, but i have not seen anyone use the wiseco piston and the stock length rod you are using, so you may or may not have piston popup issues.
 
with 0 popup you'll need to run a .027" thick gasket. due to rod/crank flex, so you piston doesn't hit the head (according to Jodie @ ARC)
 
W5R said:
The cam you have is a good one, and your stock crank is more than capable of handling the kind of power you are wanting to throw at it, go for it! That build looks to be a good choice from what i can see, but i have not seen anyone use the wiseco piston and the stock length rod you are using, so you may or may not have piston popup issues.
Click to expand...

He said 'stock length rod', however the p/n for the Rod he selected is the longer rod needed for the Wiseco when you don't cut the dome.
 
The hemi piston is fine but get the billet rod 3.308 or + .020 rod or you can get the arc rod and weisco piston drop in this will get you to .000 deck also very good and no milling of piston like you will have to do with the 3.707 rod
 
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