Open small block cam

br2715

Member
Looking into building a new open small block. I seen these Tennessee Thunder Stick cams. Does anyone know anything about these or have had one that can tell me how they performed? Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 4AFD5D91-A5DD-4592-ADC0-CB10E6D73771.png
    4AFD5D91-A5DD-4592-ADC0-CB10E6D73771.png
    225.1 KB · Views: 67
  • BF558BAA-15B5-4140-A3C6-CE8E65494608.png
    BF558BAA-15B5-4140-A3C6-CE8E65494608.png
    315.2 KB · Views: 67
or if I went with somthing with a bigger lift like this one. I had read some where if you had so much lift, addition machining would have to be done for proper clearance. What kind of machining would you normally have to do for clearance?
 

Attachments

  • 1F835AE7-D9E6-4A7B-8A22-13D8E974220F.png
    1F835AE7-D9E6-4A7B-8A22-13D8E974220F.png
    241.4 KB · Views: 40
To add to above, likely need longer valves and associated parts to keep retainer from hitting valve guide. and springs from coil binding. Also will need better pushrods with length adjusted to get correct geometry.
Need to check cam to connecting rod clearances also.

These become less and less a plug and play thing. Most every case will require something different.
 
^^^ mine i relieved the spring pockets . With stock valves. . everything is real real close . Its un ran . Now im concered i am going to pop a valve head off . Soo the longer , better valves are probably next .
 
^^^ mine i relieved the spring pockets . With stock valves. . everything is real real close . Its un ran . Now im concered i am going to pop a valve head off . Soo the longer , better valves are probably next .

I have an head that I bought from a builder that has the big valves in it and heavy springs in it. I’m not sure what the length of them are but I can find out. What length valves would I need?
 
Here in lies the problem . Nothing i mean nothing is plug and play .
It is plug and play , if your willing to sacrifice the engine .
Or shall we say Roll The Dice .
That said a general extra length is .060 - .070 . Maybe .100 .
There are really only a few options unless you go custom length .
Big valves could be std or could be longer .
Definitely call whomever you got the head from .
 
Okay so I’ve ran this motor 3 different races after building it. First race popped the valve retainer on the exhaust side. Fixed that. Second race went fine fine with no problems. Third race this past weekend made about 5 laps and broke again. This time it broke my rocker arm on the exhaust side and bent the push rod on the intake side??? After I replaced the retainer after the first race, I spun the engine by hand and it rotated fine. Didn’t feel like anything was binding up. But looking at what’s happening something has to be binding up in there for it to do this. Anyone have anything like this happen before?
 

Attachments

  • 65E93270-C9CE-474B-B8EB-9E3575287A78.jpeg
    65E93270-C9CE-474B-B8EB-9E3575287A78.jpeg
    145.9 KB · Views: 37
  • FFC632BA-7AFF-4D51-9387-E6E58E2BCBA0.jpeg
    FFC632BA-7AFF-4D51-9387-E6E58E2BCBA0.jpeg
    203.2 KB · Views: 34
You need to check all you clearnces . In the valve train .
Looks like coil bind or retainer too guide . Rocker clearance to the stud or head. Valve to piston would damage the valve and piston typically .
Still that should be checked .
 
Okay so I’ve ran this motor 3 different races after building it. First race popped the valve retainer on the exhaust side. Fixed that. Second race went fine fine with no problems. Third race this past weekend made about 5 laps and broke again. This time it broke my rocker arm on the exhaust side and bent the push rod on the intake side??? After I replaced the retainer after the first race, I spun the engine by hand and it rotated fine. Didn’t feel like anything was binding up. But looking at what’s happening something has to be binding up in there for it to do this. Anyone have anything like this happen before?
Not to revive your old thread but did you find the issue?
 
Back
Top