Predator governor removal

Earlier today I came across this video about removing a governor
it said that the governor works off of centrifugal force and if you just take off the teeth on the governor gear the engine would act as if it is not there. If someone could watch this video and tell me if this will work it is only 2 minutes long that would really help!
 

foreverfaster

Site Supporter
horse crap. take all the crap off the top. then.. pull the recoil and fly wheel. (first!) in the upper right side you will see a pin.. remember that. its the shaft that holds the parts. now take the side cover off the clutch side of the engine. you will see the engagement parts. Plastic gear from the video.. use a small punch with hammer and knock that pin into the engine.. pick up all the parts. strip the pin and put it back in the way it came out.. this will properly fill the hole.
don't forget to look for the little washers, one usually stuck in the back at the hole... it's really not rocket science. why fart with all the breaking of parts when you can just punch it out.
I like to take my bolt cutters and once all the junk is off the top.. pull the governor arm up as high as i can and snip the shaft close to the block... using the punch again. punch that little devil into the block... AGAIN look for the little washers.. might still be stuck to the top of the block inside.
NOW if you want to go one step farther... disconnect the rod... push it up in the block and pull the crank... use a good hammer and a good screwdriver or brass rod and knock the steel pressed on gear off the crank (the big one that drives the governor).. toss it in the scrap bin and put it all back together. Just my .02
 
horse crap. take all the crap off the top. then.. pull the recoil and fly wheel. (first!) in the upper right side you will see a pin.. remember that. its the shaft that holds the parts. now take the side cover off the clutch side of the engine. you will see the engagement parts. Plastic gear from the video.. use a small punch with hammer and knock that pin into the engine.. pick up all the parts. strip the pin and put it back in the way it came out.. this will properly fill the hole.
don't forget to look for the little washers, one usually stuck in the back at the hole... it's really not rocket science. why fart with all the breaking of parts when you can just punch it out.
I like to take my bolt cutters and once all the junk is off the top.. pull the governor arm up as high as i can and snip the shaft close to the block... using the punch again. punch that little devil into the block... AGAIN look for the little washers.. might still be stuck to the top of the block inside.
NOW if you want to go one step farther... disconnect the rod... push it up in the block and pull the crank... use a good hammer and a good screwdriver or brass rod and knock the steel pressed on gear off the crank (the big one that drives the governor).. toss it in the scrap bin and put it all back together. Just my .02
So that vid won't work?
 

Bob Evans

Administrator
It'll work. It's just that most of the advice you'll get from here will come from the organized (more or less) racing side of things.
What George is giving you is the correct method. The more elegant solution, so to speak.
 
It'll work. It's just that most of the advice you'll get from here will come from the organized (more or less) racing side of things.
What George is giving you is the correct method. The more elegant solution, so to speak.
Thanks so much these forums are great for learning more about these small engines!
 
It'll work. It's just that most of the advice you'll get from here will come from the organized (more or less) racing side of things.
What George is giving you is the correct method. The more elegant solution, so to speak.
I think I get yes that video where he just removed all the teeth will work but if I want my motor for longevity I should probably do it the correct way
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Although rudimentary the broken tooth method has some benefit .
No lost washers , not much disassembly , quick and simple , look stock on the outside and if you miss a piece of plastic it may get chewed up with very little damage .
Correct way is a relative term , subject too opinions .
 
Although rudimentary the broken tooth method has some benefit .
No lost washers , not much disassembly , quick and simple , look stock on the outside and if you miss a piece of plastic it may get chewed up with very little damage .
Correct way is a relative term , subject too opinions .
Very true it just seemed a little sketchy because if it was such a great way to remove the governor I feel like more people would be talking about it since it is so simple.
 

foreverfaster

Site Supporter
Very true it just seemed a little sketchy because if it was such a great way to remove the governor I feel like more people would be talking about it since it is so simple.
Yep, sketchy lol i did my first motor this way too.. but i found that tearing it down, like i described, gave me a greater satisfaction and better experience learning how things went together. don't rush it.. take time to look at all the parts and how they work together. look at casting marks, how close the crank journal comes to the cam as it rotates.. ect.. we all have to start someplace.
 

Lkerley

Member
Earlier today I came across this video about removing a governor
it said that the governor works off of centrifugal force and if you just take off the teeth on the governor gear the engine would act as if it is not there. If someone could watch this video and tell me if this will work it is only 2 minutes long that would really help!
take the flywheel off.use a punch to knock the governor gear and shaft out,remove gov.arm from the top "BE SURE TO GET ALL THE WASHERS LEFT OVER FROM GOVENOR AND ARM".get you 2 each 1/2x1" self tapping bolts and washers little bit of red loctite on the threads electric impact them in tight DONE...7/16 tap and a 7/16x3/4" bolt to match for the low oil sensor hole red loctite it with a washer finished.GET ALL LEFT OVER ALUMINUM PARTICALS CLEANED OUT OF BLOCK.takes a little time but it's done right no worrying about pieces floating around.just my 2 cents.lol
 

mike97760

Site Supporter
Very true it just seemed a little sketchy because if it was such a great way to remove the governor I feel like more people would be talking about it since it is so simple.
Welcome to Bobs. As stated earlier, this has been a kart racing site and 90% of us have years of experience learning the art of engine building the hard way. We made mistakes and learned from them. We didn't have Youtube or social media to show us how to be a small engine mechanic. We will probably be looking at things differently than the new minibike crowd who use social media to learn. Thats why Flattops answer seems contradictory to what your buddies tell you. Yes you can get inside and break, bend, fold and mutilate the governor until its gone but to me its much cleaner to simply knock the pin thru the case, as Flattop told you. I suspect getting the flywheel off is terrifying to newbies but its something you need to learn anyhow. Its not that hard.
 
i had a THOUGHT... knock the gear off the crankshaft that drives the gov gear. no more drive to the gov gear. the rest of that stuff does nothing, but get to keep the throttle linkage mechanism in place. saves some monkeying around trying to hook up the throttle with ... whatever. unless im missing something here? i like to take it all apart to and put in the 1/4 x 3/4" long allen head grub screw with thread lock in the gov hole. i just cut the wires for the oil sensor and RTV the little hole when the wire comes out of the oil sensor bulkhead fitting and RED thread lock the bulkhead fitting, easier. figure while im there put cam iin it and billet rod or drill out oil hole with bigger bit and cut 3/8" off the stock rod so it wont hit the bottom of motor when screaming the motor... the dipper hits bottom of motor, breaks off rod cap= end of motor.
 

foreverfaster

Site Supporter
i had a THOUGHT... knock the gear off the crankshaft that drives the gov gear. no more drive to the gov gear. the rest of that stuff does nothing, but get to keep the throttle linkage mechanism in place. saves some monkeying around trying to hook up the throttle with ... whatever. unless im missing something here? i like to take it all apart to and put in the 1/4 x 3/4" long allen head grub screw with thread lock in the gov hole. i just cut the wires for the oil sensor and RTV the little hole when the wire comes out of the oil sensor bulkhead fitting and RED thread lock the bulkhead fitting, easier. figure while im there put cam iin it and billet rod or drill out oil hole with bigger bit and cut 3/8" off the stock rod so it wont hit the bottom of motor when screaming the motor... the dipper hits bottom of motor, breaks off rod cap= end of motor.
yep, thats actually what we are getting ready to do.. a local class says the gov cant be removed, nor can the rod, so we are going to kick the gear off the crank and put it all back together. tie the arm off some place to keep pressure against the gov, button and let er rip. so much for silly rules.
 

Jmuck1

Site Supporter
horse crap. take all the crap off the top. then.. pull the recoil and fly wheel. (first!) in the upper right side you will see a pin.. remember that. its the shaft that holds the parts. now take the side cover off the clutch side of the engine. you will see the engagement parts. Plastic gear from the video.. use a small punch with hammer and knock that pin into the engine.. pick up all the parts. strip the pin and put it back in the way it came out.. this will properly fill the hole.
don't forget to look for the little washers, one usually stuck in the back at the hole... it's really not rocket science. why fart with all the breaking of parts when you can just punch it out.
I like to take my bolt cutters and once all the junk is off the top.. pull the governor arm up as high as i can and snip the shaft close to the block... using the punch again. punch that little devil into the block... AGAIN look for the little washers.. might still be stuck to the top of the block inside.
NOW if you want to go one step farther... disconnect the rod... push it up in the block and pull the crank... use a good hammer and a good screwdriver or brass rod and knock the steel pressed on gear off the crank (the big one that drives the governor).. toss it in the scrap bin and put it all back together. Just my .02
Did it your way, why would anyone do it any other way? Clean and slick..
 

MarkieMark1321

New member
Took everything out only thing I’m worried for now is I set the lash but there is a rowdy viabration

Both valves where set at .003 at TDC
 

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MarkieMark1321

New member
So far she’s been running food swapped the stock jet for a 125 still needs some tuning since I’m sure I don’t have it right this is my first time doing all this but honestly I think the vibration is just the normal vibration it wasn’t nothing violent she’s fired right up every time to be honest the .003 valve lash worker like a charm
 

MarkieMark1321

New member
So popped the 120 jet in and tweaked it she’s not putting anymore I’m sure a fresh plug will help to

Ran it WOT managed a 44mph

Mods are a exhaust header from Amazon…chikuni…from Amazon as well and gov removal

Might not be as accurate but let’s see hopefully it gets quicker soon
 

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