Raised sleeve Question

119kartracer

New member
Currently have a Clone and going with the 2.992 bore. Want to do the raised sleeve on it. how much should the sleeve stick out? when cutting the head should the groove be cut the same depth as the amount of sleeve sticking out or should there be like .005 to bottom it out to get a tight seal. Any advice would be great. Thanks
 
You cannot bottom it out aluminum and steel expand at different rates you will have more sealing problems than you are trying to solve.
 
Kinda figured that was how much the sleeve should pop out but wasn't sure. id rather find out ahead of time from people that are doing it. thanks for the input.
 
It would have to be a tight fit if you want it to seal up right. Im with Kart43 on this, seems like it would cause more sealing issues than its worth due to aluminum and steel expanding at different rates. If i needed it done, it would be done by a professional who specializes in that sort of thing.
 
ok...so im thinking that you would have sealing problems, not from the stick up of the sleeve or the groove in the head, but both of them together. bear with me...your going to cut a channel completely around the chamber exactly where the sleeve will contact the head. let say that the sleeve is squared off and you cut the slot, notch, ring, whatever you call it to match. my concern would be keeping flame travel from getting into this area and flame cutting that groove to the point that you can't get a good seal. or that you wouldn't be able to crank the head down with enough pressure to keep the area sealed and prevent a blow out of the gasket. i know this is done, but i can't help thinking about the challenger disaster....when the lack of sealing around an "o" ring cost the lives of the astronauts. i jsut think that you wouldn't be able to seal it and that chamber pressure and the flame would create some unhealthy things going on in the head!

just sayin!!
 
What's the point?
It's a brilliant seal.

Porsche seems to have had no problems building air cooled race engines this way for decades. I agree with the .005 standoff on the cylinder. The on I did did not have a ring cut it, but the center of the head bored round. Used a little bit of RTV on the oil portion of of the deck and never had a problem.

Charles M could tell you all about how to do this setup.
 
I told him it's best done first by a professional. I like for people to try and save a few dollars, then call me.

I will post a new video tomorrow on my YouTube channel of a new block and head i did for a kart racer. I already have a video of a complete long block with the groove in my videos.
 
So much for the 100 dollar Clone ($400 Honda) motor....LOL! Seriously, If I had 'needs' too replicate this process more than a 'couple' of times, you could 'bank' on the fact that I would has 'chunks' of billet aluminun nested onto a CNC! I would have a 2-cylinder version right next too it as well! Are there any 'investers' out their? :)
 
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