Ran it with no oil

plugnickle

New member
I run it with no oil. Started it on the grid , it dyed going out, I started it again and as soon as I hit the gas it dyed. The question is can I rebuild it or is it toast.
 
wont know until you can get the motor apart to take a look inside to see if everything (rod-crank-cylinder wall, etc) is scored and/or discolored from lack of lubrication. normally, you wont get lucky though....
 
I have saved a few oil starved engines.

I even managed to get one that was completely stuck full of rust and the rod galled up running again.

Better question for your question is has the damaged limited this engines ability to seal up?
AS long as the rod is reasonably round and you can hold around .004 rod clearance.
AS long as your ring gap does not exceeds????? ( well I try to never go over.012 )

If you can be within these Honda service limits the engine will run without smoking and knocking.
But it may not be able to run with the fast engines any more.

I save these survivors to use as utility motors.
They still have life left in them after a racing carreer when you put the governor back in them
 
I run it with no oil. Started it on the grid , it dyed going out, I started it again and as soon as I hit the gas it dyed. The question is can I rebuild it or is it toast.

Been done that bud what a bad feeling. Mine had to have the crank,piston ect. Mine was a animal .
 
Last edited:
change out the crank bearing and you'll be fine. Polish to crank journal and re-ring it, we've had this happen to 5 of our engines over the years. You will have to do this or as soon as you get it up to about 8,700 it will over heat and seize worse... good luck,
 
Seeing as you seized it on the grid no load on it the most likely things needed will be rod and may as well put a new crank in as they are cheaper than 1-1.5 hrs of clean up and polish.
 
If you find the crank has rod aluminum on it, go get some liquid draino. Cut an old oil jug so the crank will set in the jug with the journal sitting close to the bottom. Pour the draino in till the crank journal is covered and let sit over night. It will remove the aluminum so you can check for damage. Because you didn't seize it when it was really hot, the chances of saving it are good. You will need to hone the cylinder but that could be a good thing. you could get out of this with a piston, rings, rod. Do your homework and have fun doing so!!!
 
Plugnickle, Im sorry to hear about this. I would also venture to say that you will have to tear it down to check the damage. I have a cheap trick that I do immediately after I drain my oil. If I plan on storing the Engine till next race with no oil in it, I put a piece of Blue Painters masking tape on the blower housing right by the pull start. With a sharpie pen I write "NO OIL"! on the masking tape.The tape pulls off easily and leaves no residue on the cover. I remove the tape right after I put fresh oil in the Engine. If you'er cheap like me, You can put the tape on the inside of your metal tool box lid and use it next time you drain your oil. Hope your Engine is not to badly damaged.
 
If you find the crank has rod aluminum on it, go get some liquid draino. Cut an old oil jug so the crank will set in the jug with the journal sitting close to the bottom. Pour the draino in till the crank journal is covered and let sit over night. It will remove the aluminum so you can check for damage. Because you didn't seize it when it was really hot, the chances of saving it are good. You will need to hone the cylinder but that could be a good thing. you could get out of this with a piston, rings, rod. Do your homework and have fun doing so!!!

This is pure sodium hydroxide.
Works faster with no other chemicals added that may cause corrosion of the steel.....
https://www.homehardware.ca/products/300/32263061.jpg

Also make good paint stripper for steel and gets rid of that nagging wife....
 
Back
Top