raptor 4 model number

"J'-remy

Member
Anyone know what the Briggs Raptor 4 dual bearing model number is? 133230 is a raptor 2 raptor 3 would be good to know as well
looking for parts diagrams

thanks in advance
 
Turk bros used to offer a "trick" bearing for use with the single bearing crank in dual bearing blocks.
 
555204 is the single bearing crank is there a number for the dual? i hear a single would work if it's turned down
The bushing block crank can be turned down in a lathe to slip fit a bearing...the single bearing cranks will accept a ball bearing just fine.
If you get an oem dual bearing crank, they came from the factory with a bushing under the ball bearing. Both will need removed to use in a race engine, then replace with the aftermarket 9 ball bearing.


Yes, we do have new cranks in stock (for our own personal use on rebuilds only) not for retail.
The best option at this point (after exhausting ebay, old mower shops, etc.) is to buy a complete flathead engine for pennies on the dollar and grab the parts out of it that you need.

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thanks for everyone's help so far. however, 555204 is the crank listed in the Raptor II parts diagram. I'm not interested in a different part number for the same crank shaft. did briggs not make a dual bearing crankshaft? is there I/C flathead motor with dual bearings that fit the raptor 4 block? anyone have that part number?
how do you put a bushing under a bearing? i only know of a busing on the inside of the inner race vs around the outside race.
 
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This flywheel side bearing with a 555204 or 495645 crank is what you need for a R4 block. No bushing or machining needed.
 
thanks for everyone's help so far. however, 555204 is the crank listed in the Raptor II parts diagram. I'm not interested in a different part number for the same crank shaft. did briggs not make a dual bearing crankshaft? is there I/C flathead motor with dual bearings that fit the raptor 4 block? anyone have that part number?
how do you put a bushing under a bearing? i only know of a busing on the inside of the inner race vs around the outside race.
You don't want a bushing under the bearing - that was the factory's doing. Yes, it was placed between the crank and bearing. It was a way to limit the number of cranks and part numbers necessary to fit in several different style engines. They already had a larger ID bearing in stock for another purpose. Instead of inventorying a bearing similar to the 9 ball replacement bearing shown above, they used what they already had in stock. There are several crank part numbers that will work, some take more effort than others. The single bearing crank will fit as long as you use the aftermarket 9 ball bearing. If the bearing does not come with a chamfer machine on the inner race, you will need to do that to match the radius cut in the crank so that the face of the bearing meets the face of the machined flat surface on the crank. This is also important to center the crank in the bore. Then adjust your endplay.
 
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