Really need some help with KT100 clutch removal

DepDaddy

Member
I consider myself fairly intelligent, but I am having the worst time trying to remove a clutch from a KT100 I acquired. It is a wet clutch, brand unknown, supported by a 3rd bearing. The starter goes inside the allen head to start it...does this "unscrew" the other way to remove the bearing support? once that is off do I use a clutch puller from there? This is the most logical way I can think of.

If I am correct above, do I need to use a piston stop to get it? I tried and the darn this is pretty tight...I don't want to do it too hard because I feel like I could break or bend something.

Help!!

Thanks.

David
 

Ted Hamilton

Helmet Painter / Racer
The starter nut is "standard" RH thread, and a battery impact driver should remove it with no problem.
A wet clutch is probably either an older Horstman DXL if it's skinny and tall, or a Steel Nytro? if it's squat and wide.
The bearing support should only be a slip fit and should be removable without removing the starter nut unless you have some weird setup.
Once everything's removed but the clutch, you should be able to carefully thread a nut back on the crank and use a dedicated clutch puller or carefully use a 3 arm puller. Don't use the Briggs flywheel removal method with a hammer....
You can feed a bunch of cotton rope into the sparkplug hole to act as a poor man's piston stop...but shouldn't be neccesary.
good luck!
 

DepDaddy

Member
Thanks!

Just so I am clear...good old "lefty loosy" on the starter nut with cotton rope should break it free with my impact driver? The 3rd bearing for some reason doesn't just slip off. it's like it is jammed on the starter nut.

Thanks again Ted!!
 

Don K

Member
If you have a KT with a crank mounted clutch and it is properly lapped on the crank you will not get it off without a clutch removal tool.

DK
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
If I am thinking correctly once the starter nut is off.
the clutch has an internal thread that the clutch removal tool screws into.
much like an air condintioning clutch puller, dirt bike rotor puller etc.
 
Why ruin more parts? you really can't tell until it's removed, might be that it can be re-built easily and inexpensively, one of them 3 leg pullers will usually warp the drum.
 

Ted Hamilton

Helmet Painter / Racer
Thanks for the info, Jack... I made my own dedicated puller, but have seen 3 jaws used, so guess I was wrong on that. :) To the OP -- cotton rope is a makeshift piston stop -- you keep stuffing it in the spark plug hole until you can't get any more in, rotate engine CCW until it stops, then use impact driver to remove crank nut CCW. You could try some PB blaster on the bearing/nut I supposed, but I try not to use any lube anywhere near a clutch unless I have to.
 

DepDaddy

Member
Thanks for the help everyone. I am always amazed on the help that is given on this forum. Steve (StaggerDog) saved me a lot of time and trouble and went out of his way to help me remove the clutch properly this afternoon, with the proper clutch removing tool. He also spent quite a bit of time sharing some info and experiences with me.

I really appreciate all your help Steve. Ordered my spacers and I have a machinist friend that offered to help me work on the threads of the crank. I'll have this kart on the track in no time!! Now we just need to get you back in your kart!!


David
 
Your welcome David.
It was nice meeting you and bench racing and getting my hands dirty. The damage to the clutch all appears to be cosmetic (both the cover and adjusting caps) but I`d have a experienced clutch rebuilder check it out internally to be sure. On the starter nut jammed into the third bearing support, once you get it off clean it up and maybe sand it down a little. It should just have enough clearance to slid on and off. Check the keyway on the clutch to be sure it`s not damaged since the old key was banged up a bit. You can get new keyways at hardware store, match up with old one.
Steve
 
One big thing on engine clutches is to check the keyway inside for tiny cracks that come from over tightening. They will let the oil to pump out, and then cause more problems. I learned a long time ago to tourque them to only 35#., and use red Lock-Tite on the nut threads.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
One big thing on engine clutches is to check the keyway inside for tiny cracks that come from over tightening. They will let the oil to pump out, and then cause more problems. I learned a long time ago to tourque them to only 35#., and use red Lock-Tite on the nut threads.
Jack a little of topic but I have been using 25 # on my starter nuts with the 20 mm belt pulley . Am I too low on the Torque for the starter nut? Kt 100 by the way
 
If it works for you, keep using it, I just figured that I'd use the torque for the closest American thread size, been doing so since the early '80's and it works for me.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Think I will step it up. I lost 1 after a pulley swap at the track , before I found out that they needed to be lapped in.
Thanks
 
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