Resurrecting older Burris 33s

I’ve read through a lot of threads about maintaining Burris tires. Even though I’ve been racing for over 5 years, I’m still very new to getting the tires right. I’ve got a mix of 33s, ranging from 3 to 6 years old, that I’m going to start working on for a race coming up on Sept 7th. They haven’t been touched in months, I no longer run for points but still want to be somewhat competitive and not finish last. Last time I checked duro they were punching anywhere from high 50s to mid 70s. I’m going to have to clean all of them, resurface all and shrink my LRs, and obviously get the duro down on some. I’m not prepping until race day. Dumb question but what’s the correct order of operation to get these tires ready? I don’t have the special tire stuff that most everyone uses, I’ll have to use store bought stuff to help the tires along.
 
Hit them with a rubber finger on a grinder .
Then spray with WD 40.
Prepping on race day puts you behind at the start.
 
My process. Resurface tires, put 2 coats of tire tuff mint on same day( within 3 hours of each other) I resurface. Then I hit with at least 1 coat a day for 5 total days. Then I wrap with saran wrap until it's track day. Before I leave the house I will hit with a bite only prep. Once I get to the track I make a judgment whether to stick with bite only or mix bite with a medium prep. This works well for my shoestring budget and I still have tires here older than my 04 falcon.
 
I’ve read through a lot of threads about maintaining Burris tires. Even though I’ve been racing for over 5 years, I’m still very new to getting the tires right. I’ve got a mix of 33s, ranging from 3 to 6 years old, that I’m going to start working on for a race coming up on Sept 7th. They haven’t been touched in months, I no longer run for points but still want to be somewhat competitive and not finish last. Last time I checked duro they were punching anywhere from high 50s to mid 70s. I’m going to have to clean all of them, resurface all and shrink my LRs, and obviously get the duro down on some. I’m not prepping until race day. Dumb question but what’s the correct order of operation to get these tires ready? I don’t have the special tire stuff that most everyone uses, I’ll have to use store bought stuff to help the tires along.

We have a product, Pink Panther, that works very well for rejuvinating older dry tires.
We also have a "Thick Formula" of Pink Panther that is used for long term storage.
You won't need a hard tire @ K3, but you will need a lot of bite with a high crown (ie round cut) profile tire.
If you are limited to only prepping at the track - then be sure to take 3 sets with you and use a harsh prep trackside (ie Krug Green or similar copy.) Lots of preps available locally that are much better than purchasing something at the hardware store.
Personally, I like prepping my Burris earlier in the week with something like our Black Bite 2.0 for tracks like this, then just hitting them with Monster Bite right before pushing to the grid.
We have plenty of experience running @ K3.
Give us a call here at the shop if we can be of any help.


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Carlson Racing Engines
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I’ve read through a lot of threads about maintaining Burris tires. Even though I’ve been racing for over 5 years, I’m still very new to getting the tires right. I’ve got a mix of 33s, ranging from 3 to 6 years old, that I’m going to start working on for a race coming up on Sept 7th. They haven’t been touched in months, I no longer run for points but still want to be somewhat competitive and not finish last. Last time I checked duro they were punching anywhere from high 50s to mid 70s. I’m going to have to clean all of them, resurface all and shrink my LRs, and obviously get the duro down on some. I’m not prepping until race day. Dumb question but what’s the correct order of operation to get these tires ready? I don’t have the special tire stuff that most everyone uses, I’ll have to use store bought stuff to help the tires along.

What is the draw back from buying a name brand tire treatment. A lot of the things that you can buy over the counter will do more harm than good unless you know how to use those chemicals and what you need to mix with them.
 
What is the draw back from buying a name brand tire treatment. A lot of the things that you can buy over the counter will do more harm than good unless you know how to use those chemicals and what you need to mix with them.
The only downside was the amount of time I had, if I ordered any tire treatment I would’ve been waiting several days before they were in my hand.
 
Ok so an update. For reference I only have 2.5 sets of Burris 33s to work with. After doing some more reading up, I went and bought a gallon of WD40 and a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, I then mixed them together at 50/50 and soaked my tires with it. Then I set them out in the sun without the valve core and let the sun beat the oil into the tires. I started the process over the holiday weekend.

As of today, 9-4, I have 9 useable tires that duro between 50 and 65, and one tire that punches 45-55. So in less than a week I’ve managed to get them down anywhere from 5 to 15 points. I’ll have to continue soaking them multiple times a day with the oil mix and let the sun do the work, but I’m happy with the results for now. Plus I figure, using oils to drop the duro won’t hurt the properties of the rubber like harsh chemicals would.
 
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