RF Caster

I just read through all of the msquared thread..been in racing long enough to get galaxy brain. Got everything figured out, but the final pieces to the puzzle are rf caster and how having more cross than left causing looseness, less cross than left causing looseness and the same cross and left percentage causing a tight condition is confusing me
 
Right front increases? Increasing right front caster will (increase positive, rolling caster block rearward) decrease weight on the right front in a turn. put your kart on a scale and turn the wheel left. or go and turn your steering wheel and watch the wheel go UP.
 
hotelcalifornia said:
I just read through all of the msquared thread..been in racing long enough to get galaxy brain. Got everything figured out, but the final pieces to the puzzle are rf caster and how having more cross than left causing looseness, less cross than left causing looseness and the same cross and left percentage causing a tight condition is confusing me
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both my 2012 Slack Axiom 59 L 61.5 Cross and my 2021 Prodigy cadet 61L 68 Cross are both more cross than left. In general increasing cross will tighten up a kart. However there are several things that can contribute to loose including Stagger, Air Pressure, tire grip driving style etc etc. A good idea is to take tire temps immediately upon exiting the track to determine what tires are doing the work or are being overloaded. some check the increase in air pressure to determine the same thing.
 
hotelcalifornia said:
I just read through all of the msquared thread..been in racing long enough to get galaxy brain. Got everything figured out, but the final pieces to the puzzle are rf caster and how having more cross than left causing looseness, less cross than left causing looseness and the same cross and left percentage causing a tight condition is confusing me
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It's not that it will create a tight condition automatic, left and cross matching makes that set up as tight as you'll get it
 
racing promotor said:
It's not that it will create a tight condition automatic, left and cross matching makes that set up as tight as you'll get it
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Yeah I was just trying to understand how msquared was wording it..but I guess the loose you get from the cross being lower than the left weight (for example 58 left 52 cross) can be better for some situations than the loose you would get from having higher cross than left (for example 64 cross and 58 left)
 
hotelcalifornia said:
The wheel goes up, but dynamically is a different story, when the wheel goes up the kart plunges on the RF from my understanding
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the right goes up the left goes down and most of the karts weight is transferred to the left rear tire. the weight from the right rear is then transferred to the right rear through the turn. you want both tires to be working to their maximum potential if the right rear is the hottest tire you would need to decrease cross to pull weight off of it.
as soon as you turn the wheel the weight of the kart unloads to the front. when you punch the gas at the apex of the turn you are transferring the weight to the rears. if you punch it and then suddenly let off the throttle you can upset the weight transfer and make the kart spin loose as well. look up trailing throttle oversteer on YouTube for more info.
 
You just said when the tires turn the weight is transferred TO the left rear, not from. And that the weight from the RR is transferred to the RR
 
your in an LTO kart. the weight on the left moves to the right through centrifugal forces. that is why you're offset in the kart. weight transfers from the left to the right. you want the left rear to do work so the weight it looses is made up with the cross. tire temps and air pressure will tell you if you are putting too much weight on the left rear through cross. if your loose it may be you have too much or too little weight on the left rear. BUT you may have too little stagger or you're letting off the throttle and taking weight off the rear making the kart loose. you could be loose because you have too much rear weight or not enough. cross and left are only two pieces to a larger puzzle. the entire kart has to work as one. the key is to optimize traction on all 4 corners of the kart. sometimes correcting loose is working on making the front end push.
 
put your kart on 4 scales take note of all the numbers. turn the steering wheel just a little to the left watch what happens to the weight of each scale. then you will know what's going on. then you won't get confused when someone tells you increasing caster will load the right front.
 
I thought M Squared was refering to the cross adjustment effect .
Was dictated by the left cross relationship .
Low cross setups the adjustments effect was different then a high cross adjustment .
Now im going to have to reread it .:rolleyes:
 
J'-remy said:
put your kart on 4 scales take note of all the numbers. turn the steering wheel just a little to the left watch what happens to the weight of each scale. then you will know what's going on. then you won't get confused when someone tells you increasing caster will load the right front.
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I'm familiar with everything you've said..been into karting for 10 years, I know how weight transfer works, and I do believe that raising RF caster loads the RF more dynamically as the weight falls onto the right front from the left front and left rear
 
hotelcalifornia said:
I'm familiar with everything you've said..been into karting for 10 years, I know how weight transfer works, and I do believe that raising RF caster loads the RF more dynamically as the weight falls onto the right front from the left front and left rear
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then you believe whatever you want to believe despite the evidence showing you otherwise. how does it load it up when its moving away from the track? it does the exact opposite of what the scales read because you want it to be that way huh? why are you asking questions when you've already got it all figured out? you can't solve the puzzle hammering the wrong pieces together. good luck
 
J'-remy said:
then you believe whatever you want to believe despite the evidence showing you otherwise. how does it load it up when its moving away from the track? it does the exact opposite of what the scales read because you want it to be that way huh? why are you asking questions when you've already got it all figured out? you can't solve the puzzle hammering the wrong pieces together. good luck
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Static is not the same as dynamic
 
The reason I asked this is because of this thread by msquared. He's super smart about setup but I think he has some typos in the thread. See where he talks about RF caster. Or maybe theres no typo in here

Caster Part III

More caster split increases rotation on entry but will reduce rotation on exit. Increase RF caster.

Less caster split reduces rotation on exit but will increase rotation on exit. Increase LF caster. Provides good turn down on exit.

Increases caster on LF and RF simultaneously will add bite to the rear of the kart.

Decreasing caster in LF and RF simultaneously will add bite to front of the kart.

RF caster (along with camber) will dictate weight transfer to RF corner of chassis. More caster means more weight to RF. Helps free chassis up. Less weight gets to RR

LF caster will dictate mechanical weight transfer to RR. More LF caster means more weight to RR. Helps tighten kart up.
 
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