Rival loose in and middle

Do you have the lead in or out of the right front? I tend to keep the lr on the rival out about a inch my driver's about the same size as you. I'm assuming your on dry silck conditions?
yessir mostly dry slick. I have made some changes but don't race again for couple weeks. What do you mean on the right front?
 
I don't know where they should be on your particular kart butt here's some general food for thought which may help you to decide where you might want to try them. In any case you won't know the outcome as with anything you try, until you test it out for yourself on the track.


General statements I personally consider ok:

Longer chassis lends itself to wider radius tracks and can help if your running high hp to put the the hp to the ground as in a dragster.
Another example is the reason why WoO and Allstars will run a longer chassis. They do so because acceleration during time trials is of the utmost importance to get them a good time trial time.

Shorter chassis lends itself to tighter radius tracks and a more responsive chassis.

Chassis longer on the outside and/or shorter on the inside lends itself to helping you rotate thru turns/turn.

A chassis longer on the inside usually is not a good thing for oval racing.

In addition to helping you rotate/turn making a chassis longer by moving the RF forward puts the RF into the track/turn sooner.

Shortening the inside length of the chassis or lengthening the outside of the chassis by moving the LR forward(as so obvious watching Late Models) or the RR back moves the center line of the chassis to the right. You can also think about it moving the nose of the chassis to the left. Again using Late Models for a reference you can think about it as moving the heavy engine weighted nose of the car to the left hanging it out over the inside of the tracks banking.

All of the above are to change how various tires will interact with the track. Yes they all will change weight outs but more importantly they change the way each tire will work with the track. They are physical changes to the chassis and even if you put your weight outs back to where they were as I suspect most offering help on here would suggest, they still change how your tires will work with the track. Because of that besides learning what each will do to your karts on track performance, will also build your arsenal of specific things you can do to fix specific on track problems.
 
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I don't know where they should be on your particular kart butt here's some general food for thought which may help you to decide where you might want to try them. In any case you won't know the outcome as with anything you try, until you test it out for yourself on the track.


General statements I personally consider ok:

Longer chassis lends itself to wider radius tracks and can help if your running high hp to put the the hp to the ground as in a dragster.
Another example is the reason why WoO and Allstars will run a longer chassis. They do so because acceleration during time trials is of the utmost importance to get them a good time trial time.

Shorter chassis lends itself to tighter radius tracks and a more responsive chassis.

Chassis longer on the outside and/or shorter on the inside lends itself to helping you rotate thru turns/turn.

A chassis longer on the inside usually is not a good thing for oval racing.

In addition to helping you rotate/turn making a chassis longer by moving the RF forward puts the RF into the track/turn sooner.

Shortening the inside length of the chassis or lengthening the outside of the chassis by moving the LR forward(as so obvious watching Late Models) or the RR back moves the center line of the chassis to the right. You can also think about it moving the nose of the chassis to the left. Again using Late Models for a reference you can think about it as moving the heavy engine weighted nose of the car to the left hanging it out over the inside of the tracks banking.

All of the above are to change how various tires will interact with the track. Yes they all will change weight outs but more importantly they change the way each tire will work with the track. They are physical changes to the chassis and even if you put your weight outs back to where they were as I suspect most offering help on here would suggest, they still change how your tires will work with the track. Because of that besides learning what each will do to your karts on track performance, will also build your arsenal of specific things you can do to fix specific on track problems.
paulkish thank you for your insight sir this is something im gonna have to try. the track I run on mostly has wide sweeping turns with some banking not a whole lot but its there. On the Rival this adjustment is slotted, maybe all karts are that way?? My son rides a kinetic and his are slotted and right in the middle, I like the way his kart drives. Anyway I have something to try and I appreciate the help
 
IMO, all you needed to do was drop the nose weight.

Believe it was Seay who said never run more than 45.5% Nose, which I take those words to mean that is the maximum amount and has had no problem with even less.

IMHO out of total respect for his skill in karting, if Chris Seay said it take it to the bank. period
 
I don’t know if I missed it or not but what tire are you running? Put these numbers in the kart....

cross 66
Left 58
Nose 45
+.25 lf
-2.5 rf
Stock castor
1 1/2 front
1 rear
Rr off frame 3/16
Lr off frame 7/8
Seat 9” off axle
Center of seat 1/2” off steering upright
Right seat strut should be 4 3/4” off inner motor
Lr pills OUT
Rr Pills OUT
Cassettes in rear holes
Lf L block back
Rf L Block back

On dry slick type of tracks this seems to be the best “neutral” set up I have found to be beneficial to customers on the Rival.....with little adjustments needed throughout the night. Mostly have been just tire/tire prep issues 90% of the time.
My cell number is 3092810266 if you want to go more into detail.

JR Curtis
JRC Performance
Ultramax Racing Chassis
 
Here's the JRC corner weights if you need them.
jpc PERFORMANCE_1 8 31 20.jpg
 
You cursed me lol we caught this exact problem all night last night lol.
sorry man hope you figured it out lol, we have a little inconsistency in the track surface but I was able to grab heat and feature win Saturday 5th. 1 and 2 kart was on a rail 3 and 4 are a little flatter but still decent for the feature. Thanks for your help. im gonna put Jr Curtis setup in the Kart and see whats up
 
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I don’t know if I missed it or not but what tire are you running? Put these numbers in the kart....

cross 66
Left 58
Nose 45
+.25 lf
-2.5 rf
Stock castor
1 1/2 front
1 rear
Rr off frame 3/16
Lr off frame 7/8
Seat 9” off axle
Center of seat 1/2” off steering upright
Right seat strut should be 4 3/4” off inner motor
Lr pills OUT
Rr Pills OUT
Cassettes in rear holes
Lf L block back
Rf L Block back

On dry slick type of tracks this seems to be the best “neutral” set up I have found to be beneficial to customers on the Rival.....with little adjustments needed throughout the night. Mostly have been just tire/tire prep issues 90% of the time.
My cell number is 3092810266 if you want to go more into detail.

JR Curtis
JRC Performance
Ultramax Racing Chassis
JR im on pinks and blue maxxis, kinda sandy clay grove comes in pretty good for the feature. I see I need to take some nose off and left side as well as fine tune my seat placement and see how it does. I tried a higher cross this weekend Not bad at all last race Saturday 5th and I think you are also 100% correct on tire and prep issue. Thank you for your help!
 
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