Roll speed

Amazed no one has mentioned this.

Separate right side tires, or simply the rr from your matched sets.

Make rr tire creating less grip than the rest of the set.

This was a staple of older chassis setups.
Ie right sides 2 pts harder than lefts.

It's about balancing the traction to lessen drag on the straights.

Food for thought.
 
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If I were always at the track with you or anyone else for that matter and all we needed was .1 th consistently what I'd be looking at most was where can my driver pick up .2 th and we'd work with that first. Take that out of the equation If we proved the driver is as perfect as it's going to get, next would be Tires and air pressures, and as little rear stagger as possible but still have good crisp rotation .
Agreed. I ALWAYS tell my JR3 driver (racer dad here) if we are with 0.2 it’s all up to him and there’s not too much I can do for him. At the same time I’m reading the tires, the track, and other variables looking for any speed that’s out there.
 
That was one of my thoughts also, we are in the works of getting a stiffer version. It's just taking a bit because the guy that owns it just had their first kid. But everyone that has Rode it says it had tons of grip and basically turns itself on the track.
We got a brand spanking mew chassis in September, 2022. First time out: FAST! Next race: suddenly snappy loose. 3rd race: won’t turn in. I slapped a $199 predator motor and an older good enough set of tires and let my son run 450 laps on a Sunday after a race to kinda get the chassis aquatinted with flexing and reflecting. Haven’t changed a thing since.
 
Haven't played with much caster yet but I am going to change it for our next race. Things we have tried are, 3rf camber to 2.5, 47.5 nose all the way to 45, which it ran much better the less nose we took off of it, we have moved the rf caster block to the forward position because it was rolling on the rf way to hard and causing the tire to roll over and kart to bounce in the front. 58.5 left to 61 left, 67 cross to 72 cross. We run in the southeast Carolinas and such. The chassis designer and myself are very good friends we talk about changing things on the kart all the time. It's not radically different than mainstream stuff, but one of my drivers has Rode a premier v1 and v2 and a scythe 083 and now ours and says ours produces the most grip of them all. I plan to play with spindle degrees at some point as well. Like I said, the owner/my buddy just had his first child so he has had to take a step back from going to the track with us for a few weeks but will be back soon. Before that he was always at the track with us as we tested and tried different things. I am not a slouch on tires by no means, I know what I am doing there, that's why I was brought on to help him with this venture and how it started. Gone from brand new tires, to few months old, to rerolls, to no rolls, to straight regular prep to aggressive prep. THANK YOU ALL for every bit of input and help and knowledge you have chose to give me it is very much appreciated.
Caster is a powerful tool. Without springs, caster essentially control camber gain when the wheel is turned. The greater positive camber, the greater camber gain when the wheel is turned x degrees. Be sure to maintain the appropriate CASTER SPLIT when you are adjusting.
 
What are some different things you guys change, chassis setup or adjustment wise to get more roll speed out of your karts? We are consistently. 1 off most races but still competitive so looking to get all I can get.
Separate from other replies in the thread and just addressing the question, my gut response is:

1. Roll speed matters very little if you can’t make the corner.
2. I try to pump up the air as much as possible given track and weather conditions (judgement call). Ideally, my driver would say she’s a bit loose in final practice and I’d back it down 0.3 psi. Not fighting me loose, but too loose to pull it down and pass out of the corner.
3. Set your toe. If you adjust caster or camber, toe may change. I bring my accutoe to the track in case we run off the track in practice.
4. Ensure the kart isn’t bound up. Nerf bars and bumpers should be free. Seat should be secure but not too tight.
5. Seat: Don’t be afraid to move it. I moved a seat after getting a kart straight from the manufacturer, weighed out and all. I don’t regret.
6. Don’t stray from what you with tires.
 
Anytime my Jr 3 driver reported little loose final practice, I'd just smile because as long as I keep the right 4 tires on it, that little loose in practice would go out and set the pole, and win the feature ;)
 
We got a brand spanking mew chassis in September, 2022. First time out: FAST! Next race: suddenly snappy loose. 3rd race: won’t turn in. I slapped a $199 predator motor and an older good enough set of tires and let my son run 450 laps on a Sunday after a race to kinda get the chassis aquatinted with flexing and reflecting. Haven’t changed a thing since.
This kart was that way when we first started riding it, and the more we change the better it has gotten. We have changed just about everything on it. Have gone from how he wanted it set up to finally letting me just run with it and I feel we have gotten it very close and has been pretty consistent. I am happy with it currently considering it not to be a name brand chassis. Im.gonna test it head to head this coming weekend against one of my other karts.
 
Caster is a powerful tool. Without springs, caster essentially control camber gain when the wheel is turned. The greater positive camber, the greater camber gain when the wheel is turned x degrees. Be sure to maintain the appropriate CASTER SPLIT when you are adjusting.
I am going to change some caster tomorrow when we scale out and see if it changes anything at our race next weekend. As I have maybe mentioned before, I'm not to educated on the chassis dynamics and design and what happens when you do certain things other than most of the basics. But I am.not afraid to try anything at all.
 
When ever and EVERY time my son told me we were down some rpm's first time out for practice, I'd ask him "do you want me to put some gear on it?".

He'd turn, look at the track for a bit and tell me, "no I'll fix it with air pressure" and he did with rpm's up next time out.

Yes he may have done something with air pressure but the fix was him turning and looking at the track.
He knew where his issues were on the track and brought the rpm's up by making a driving change.

I never asked him what he did on the track to fix the rpm problem, the fix was his deal not dads. ... :)
 
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