Royal Purple Oil

0W-20 works great in the clones, i used it for a long time before switching to Thor Lite because it was cheaper. There is absolutely nothing wrong with Royal Purple, it offers great wear protection and heat transfer properties, and always comes out of the engine just as clean as it goes in if you keep the oil changed regularly. I change mine after each day of racing, some people change it more than that and some change it less, whatever works best for you. But there is nothing at all wrong with that oil, the only people who will tell you differently would be the ones trying to get you to switch to a different oil or what they use.
 
i used royal purple for two years without any oil related issues. this year, i'm going with the lucas karting oil from ARC. going to give it a try...doesn't perform? no problem!! i'll go back to royal purple! some will say that an automotive oil shouldn't be used in a kart motor....i say bull pucky!! given a 1000 racers will recommned 1000 different oil brands and give you 10,000 reasons to use thier favorite brand...it all comes down to what YOU want to use. Weddle Raicng is 100 percent right! it comes out of our engines looking like it was when i put it in....i use 14-16 ounces and change every other race night....
 
Shouldn't oil remove the dirt and contaminents from your engine when it's changed? I thought that would be the reason to change, maybe I am wrong?. If this is the case, and the oil you use does not discolor with contaminates, I would assume it is not doing it's job. I would not be using that oil any longer. Plus, you guys are using pump gas ( inherently more dirty than methanol we use ) so with any kind of blow-by at all, the oil should not look "as clean as when it went in". JMO
 
wrong way to think...if you have the engine built right and you run the correct filter and filter your fuel before you introduce it into your race motor, then the contaminents will be kept a a very low level. what you dont want to see is a bunch of sludge or debris in the oil when you change it. racing on dirt, you will expect to see a very tiny bit and i have noticed a very tiny bit of "fuel odor" but not enough to worry about. when i'm changing the oil, i always use the finger method to track any crap in the oil...stick your finger in the oil and see if you feel any grit. i've been using royal purple for two years, changing it every other race (i'm on asphalt) and i have found it to be the same coming out as going in. remember, you WANT the oil to look clean and not be full of grit or sludge...this means that your motor is running efficently and it's nice and tight! you get grit into the oil and your sucking it in from somewhere!!!!
 
Shouldn't oil remove the dirt and contaminents from your engine when it's changed? I thought that would be the reason to change, maybe I am wrong?. If this is the case, and the oil you use does not discolor with contaminates, I would assume it is not doing it's job. I would not be using that oil any longer. Plus, you guys are using pump gas ( inherently more dirty than methanol we use ) so with any kind of blow-by at all, the oil should not look "as clean as when it went in". JMO

If your air filter is doing its job properly, you arent gonna be getting dirt inside the engine in the first place, if you are, you can bet your rings and valves will need work very soon, as well as the cylender bore if its alot of dirt. If your keeping the engine clean and free from dirt inside, the only thing you will see in the oil is carbon, which you wont even see much of that if your changing the oiil frequently enough. What causes the engine to get a buildup of carbon or anything inside, is when guys run the engine for several races or several days without changing oil, and dont drain the oil while the engine is hot, letting that oil settle to the bottom of the engine. I drain mine as soon as i come off the track after the last feature race of the day, i dont want any of that crap settling in my engine. I want the engine to be clean and last as long as possible.
 
I wait until I get home from the track to change the oil...but even then, we run the engine for at least 5 minutes before we change...biggest failure that I've seen in clones (or any motor) is that some don't take a few second and clean the air filter out (blowing it from the inside out really helps!) and keeping the oil changed on a set schedule. the fuel, we buy at the track, but still filter it with the ole paper paint filter before we put it in...just not wanting to take a chance that we be leadin and get that one small piece of crap that costs us the win!!
 
been using 5w20 royal purple for three years in clones , all I can say is its great for these lil clone engines
 
used it for years then got so expensive...I switched to Mobile 1....I tested it is briggs engines. My brigs were running hot at the piston pin, discolorinng the piston and rod journal on crank, started using mobile 1 and solved the problem...rings last much longer with syn oil
 
I've been running 5-20 for 2 seasons, stock and open modified. All bearings and piston/sleeves look great with minimal scoring and wear. Will keep on using it...
 
you jest ain't raight devel-d-dawg!! jest ain't raight!! y'all puts red colored stuff and yeller colored stuff, but y'all ain't gonna put no purple inta yer motor? that ain't raight!! lol!!! thought the same thing when I first started using it...just didn't look right....but it works real good!!

leave it to a dawgs fan to go with all red colored stuff!! me? husker fan!!! on wait!! they's red too!! dang it!!
 
used it for years then got so expensive...I switched to Mobile 1....I tested it is briggs engines. My brigs were running hot at the piston pin, discolorinng the piston and rod journal on crank, started using mobile 1 and solved the problem...rings last much longer with syn oil

Royal Purple is fully synthetic...dont see how mobile 1 solved your problem.....
 
Ran Royal Purple 5w-20 in a 300 lap endurance race didn't change it once motor held up at almost a constant 450°, works great in my opinion.
 
I have told this to many people that has called me regarding Royal Purple oil. Royal Purple is probably one of the best Drag and Circle track racing oil there is. I ran it for awhile in our Late Model engines with great results. However it is designed for a high pressure, high volume oiling system. This oil depends on the sump pumps to disperce the oil to its desired place. In other words it does not atomize very well, break up into a ultra fine mist. It has very good ingredients for high RPM racing engines but it just wasn't designed for slash lube only engines. BUT if it has been working for you I will say " if it ain't broke, don't fix it"...
 
Back
Top