Rules state weeny so we need to take the big pipe off.

Mr angery

Member
Who makes/ sells the ones that don’t break.


Have inertia dyno so can tune but really don’t mess with clones much.


Do most rejet / change carb settings/ reset timming when going from big pipe to little.

Or just switch it out and run.
 

DynoDon

Moderator
I have had them on the red plates at our track for three years now and have only had one out of 7 break. That one broke because it wasn't braced correctly. The owner of the engine made a change on the head without me knowing it. All the pipes I run are the DD-03 Robertson Torque Tube. I know Dover also has a good pipe.
 
I have seen one break, it wasn't braced. I welded it back up, it got a brace and has ran this entire season with no problems. And, I haven't rejetted when going from big to weenie pipe and vice versa.
 

Racer14sl

New member
People give these small pipes a bad wrap because of breakage. How much have these people wasted time "port matching" the inlet, causing the pipe to become weak in that area, is a whole other story... I've had big and small pipes break, just the way it goes with race parts. Agree with everyone else though, pipe must be braced to assure longevity. Whats the correct way to brace these??? I'm not real sure on that, but you don't want to "bind" the pipe up with the brace. It's to be used as a support to keep vibration's to a min. I've used the ARC pipe stated above with ARC weenie pipe specific brace for 2+ years and never had an issue...
 

W5R

New member
I use the chromoly steel 3/4" weenie pipe, not sure what brand it is but its a very sturdy pipe, i actually carry my engine around by the bend in the pipe when the engine isnt on the kart and have never had one break. People must be selling some ridiculously cheap made pipes if they are breaking that easily....
 
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