Track Tac

Safety wired?????

C

Cuda67bnl

New member
Can anyone tell me what exactly has to be safety wired and such in order to race at Thanksgiving Thunder? Someone just told me that every single nut and bolt on the kart has to be wired, including head bolts, carb bolts, steering wheel, etc. I'm finding that a bit hard to believe. But if it's true, I guess I'll be saying at home instead of running there.
 
Its usally one or 2 of the sidecover bolts, one or both of the top 2 headbolts, and the carb studs that get wired and sealed, at least around here for the big races. Some tracks just paint the bolts and carb studs instead of wiring. Never have heard about steering wheel and weight bolts having to be wired, the steering wheel bolts should have safety clips on them and weight bolts have to be double nutted for safety, all other bolts on the chassis like heims and stuff have to have safety clip on them also, but most chassis already come with those from the factory.
 
steering wheel, and hub. tie rods, hiems, L block lower bolts, axle c clips, spindles, brake rotor. exhaust bolts , weight bolts
barry clips or safety wire.
engine as stated sidecover head bolt and carb. course engine type matters.
best to check with promoter.
 
For as long as I can remember since I began Kart racing all steering parts have been required to be safety wired or cotter pinned, along with weight bolts, double nutting isn't as reliable.
 
What is the purpose of the little clips that come on all bolts on the kart if everything must be safety wired? Is everyone supposed to drill another hole in everything and safety wire all the front end components along with the clips? That does not make sense. At the biggest event I ever went to, which was the Insane One $50,000 race, they checked to make sure all weight bolts were 5/16" bolts and that they were double butted, and that all of the front end and steering components, wheel hubs and any other bolts had safety clips on them , then they issued your inspection sticker. That was it. I wouldn't bother racing an event if I had to go thru and redrill everything on the kart just to run more safety wire thru everything, including the weight bolts. They should come from the factory with all of that stuff predrilled and wired if that was the case and they had to be safety wired in addition to the clips.
 
Safty wire is to keep bolts from coming loose that a safty pin will not work. Example--your steering wheel. The 3 bolts are to be safty wired so they can't come loose and fall out. A SAFTY pin will do no goodif the bolt can just come loose lol. Just use common sense. Bottom bolt of your l block only needs a safty pin. Your just keeping the but from falling off. Your tierod bolts and nuts need a safty pin. Your header bolts should be safty wired. Your pedals should have a cotter pin. No SAFTY clip. Your weights should be all double nutted. Never single nut, unless you use cotter pin as we'll. follow?? These are typical rules anywhere you race. At least should be lol. Ever see a 5 pound puck fall off? Of yeah it can do some damage
 
" I wouldn't bother racing an event if I had to go thru and redrill everything on the kart just to run more safety wire thru everything, including the weight bolts. They should come from the factory with all of that stuff predrilled and wired if that was the case and they had to be safety wired in addition to the clips. "

Then it's guys like you that we wouldn't let race at our track. Can't take time for safety. It's obvious you haven't been hurt in a kart due to someone else's lack of concern for safety. Why don't you invest in a rulebook, like every racer should so you know what you are suppose to do. People will spend $500. to go faster but won't spend $10. on safety.
 
As of right now it looks like everything on my chassis should be good to go, except maybe the weights. They're double nutted, but not drilled and wired. Everything else at least has a safety pin in it. I'll have to still get confirmation on what engine bolts need to be drilled because right now only my header is wired.
 
harrym said:
" I wouldn't bother racing an event if I had to go thru and redrill everything on the kart just to run more safety wire thru everything, including the weight bolts. They should come from the factory with all of that stuff predrilled and wired if that was the case and they had to be safety wired in addition to the clips. "

Then it's guys like you that we wouldn't let race at our track. Can't take time for safety. It's obvious you haven't been hurt in a kart due to someone else's lack of concern for safety. Why don't you invest in a rulebook, like every racer should so you know what you are suppose to do. People will spend $500. to go faster but won't spend $10. on safety.
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I do have a rulebook, drilling and safety wiring the weight bolts are not mentioned in it. The only thing the rule book says to safety wire is the exhaust stud Allen bolts and the muffler. I did not say a word about skipping safety or anything like that, dont get me wrong, I just asked by require people to drill more holes in their stuff than what the kart came with from the factory, when the kart left the factory with safety clips on everything that should be secured on the chassis. Except weights and bolts, which I believe everyone knows its common at most tracks that weight bolts have to be double nutted for safety, not drilled, wired or tied together.
 
Weddle Racing said:
I do have a rulebook, drilling and safety wiring the weight bolts are not mentioned in it. The only thing the rule book says to safety wire is the exhaust stud Allen bolts and the muffler. I did not say a word about skipping safety or anything like that, dont get me wrong, I just asked by require people to drill more holes in their stuff than what the kart came with from the factory, when the kart left the factory with safety clips on everything that should be secured on the chassis. Except weights and bolts, which I believe everyone knows its common at most tracks that weight bolts have to be double nutted for safety, not drilled, wired or tied together.
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The rule book if complete should have a chassis section in it, if it doesnt they are probably using WKA's rules on kart safety tech there it will explain drilling and safety wiring bolts on the brake rotor, as well as the 3 bolts for the steering wheel safety wired
The rule about double nutting the weights is all thats required, that and I believe 1 5lb weight per 5/16's bolt
 
Here is the basic chassis rules, these are used by most all Rule sets

4.3.3 Brakes: Conventional (caliper and disc)
hydraulic disc types that brake the rear
wheels only. No front wheel brakes except in
“Unlimited” class. Steel or iron rotors
only. For all F200, Briggs Ltd Modified
, KT100 and Unlimited classes the minimum
rotor (disk) diameter and width is 7.1” x
.18”. All bolts and fasteners to be safety
wired or cotter keyed.

4.3.4 Brake rotor cover: A flat metal disc co
ver (“Wolf plate”) between the seat and
brake rotor is mandatory.

4.3.5 Steering:

4.3.5.1 Solid steering shafts shall be a minimu
m .625” diameter, made of cold rolled
steel, and one-piece design. Welding th
e steering wheel or hub to the shaft
is not allowed. Shaft extensions, and
cutting and welding the shaft to alter
its length is not allowed. The steer
ing wheel must be secured to the shaft
with a nut or cap screw in the axial
position. Quick release type steering
wheel mandatory on all Champs and is
optional on sprint chassis. Hollow
shafts shall be a minimum of .700” di
ameter X .070 minimum wall steel tubing.
Steering hub must be mounted by a ¼” bo
lt parallel to its axis point. Tiller
type shaft steering systems are not allowed.

4.3.5.2 All steering component bolts, and nuts,
must be cotter keyed and/or safety
wired and must be a minimum grade 5 rating.



4.3.5.3 Steering wheels may be circular, with
a ten-inch minimum diameter, and a
minimum of three spokes or the butte
rfly type, with a ten-inch minimum
diameter, and four spokes, and a minimum
grip length of five
inches on each
side.

4.3.6 Fasteners used on any component that will en
able adjustment of camber, caster, etc.
must be cotter keyed an
d/or safety wired.

4.3.7 All weights added to the kart must be secu
rely fastened to the kart with a minimum
5/16-inch diameter bolt. Any single weight
weighing in excess of seven pounds must
utilize a minimum of two 5/16-inch minimum diam
eter bolts. All bolts used to fasten
weights to the kart must be cotter keye
d, safety wired, or double nutted.

4.3.7.1 All weights attached to karts must be pa
inted white. It is also recommended
that your kart number be on the weight.
 
I disagree about the steering wheel/bottom of L block clip part, if your bolts for the wheel are clipped instead of wired, the wheel cannot fall off, it will get sloppy, but the clip will allow the nut to stay on the bolt and not fall off. the L block bolt needs to be wired, a clip on a bolt head isnt going to stop the bolt from backing out if it isnt attached to anything.
 
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