Setting castor/camber without a gauge

F1F21

Member
I know there have been posts about this in the past I’m sure but cannot find them. I’ve got a tough time spending a fair amount of money on a kart specific gauge so how exactly can I measure my castor and camber with a straight edge and either digital level that measures in degrees or something else similar? Please enlighten me! Lol
 
Hold the straight edge against the caster block put the digital level on straight edge read degrees .
Camber same way holing it on a good straight rim is best .
Use a pair of gauge blocks or a solid block against the rim edge . That will move it out away from the tire .
Alternatively place a circular plate against the tire . Ie pizza pan , plywood metal plate any thing flat .
Be aware this will be for your comparitive readings . Not direct comparison to the local hot shoes digital intercomp .
Your results will be close and the more you do it the better they will be .
When you make a change you will know you added .5 degrees or changed caster from 8 too 10 .it just may not be accurate to the tenth degree .
Always use same gauge block each time until you find something better then use that device or block .
 
Since evryone knows someone with a smart phone a digital angle finder is right at your finger tips.
The factory caster marks are more then adequate if the chassis is marked .
With out L-Block type front end you would need a bit different approach . Ie extended king pin bolt .
 
Since evryone knows someone with a smart phone a digital angle finder is right at your finger tips.
The factory caster marks are more then adequate if the chassis is marked .
With out L-Block type front end you would need a bit different approach . Ie extended king pin bolt .
I was going to ask that because I do not have L block front end.
 
The C part might be suitable just depends on if its fabbed up symetrical or not .
Chassis brand may lead to another answer.
Are you wanting to cange it or just curious .
 
You could measure it, I can find for you what the measurement should be versus degrees of camber. Would 1/2° increments be okay. Just measure how long the spindle axle is, from the barrel to the end of the spindle. I just laid one out, of course it doesn't match your spindle, I don't think, and for every half degree of camber it measures .065". The spindle I measured on was 7" long.
 
camber picture.jpg
 
I have one of the small, magnetic angle gauges and have been trying to find out a cheap way to adapt it to the spindles... would make a great camber gauge on the cheap!
 
If you can find the original accutoe adapter that would be the ticket . Prc may still have these maybe ?
Or have someone machine one up .
Alternativly a 5 /8 nut (prefrably long with a tight thread ) with a long 5/8 bolt screwed in , dress the end of the bolt square .
 
I was thinking the nut idea too, and fab up something but I can't seem to figure out the thread pitch of the spindles, is it 5/8"-NF?
 
Yes . I did something similar a nut maybe 2 ( freind has it currently ) and set screw tig welded . The new spindles had a step that prevented the camber gauge from fully engaging the spindle .
I always threatend to disassemble and reduce the allen head , yet to be done as the adapter works .
 
You know i tried all types of options . I have never regreted buying a camber gauge . Or caster camber gauge .
So much simpler with no questions about the outcome .
Also they are useless with out a completly level area or scale stand .
 
If your front spindle looks anything like this, and the top to bottom measurement doesn't change things a lot, a half turn of the rod end nut on the tire side of the bracket equals .425° increase/decrease in camber.
setting camer.jpg
 
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I bought a flanged nut that I put on backwards so that
the flange faced out and was a large surface to
stick the magnet onto.
 
I don't use my I-phone to set it but you can if that's all you have and can be used at the track if you think something moved
 
Straight edge and a cheap inclinometer (available at most any hardware or lumber yard) will work.
We have them in stock if you can't find one locally.
Cheap and accurate.

Of course I prefer the PRC laser deal now because I'm spoiled, but I've used piano wire, 4' levels, straight edges, inclinometers, caster/camber gauges, etc for years and won plenty of races over the course before laser lights were ever considered. :)


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
30 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Saw a part that might fix the issue with the stepped spindle end and the older camber gauges . In the preformance bodies and parts catalog there is a QA1 linkage adapter ( QA1as10-10) All machied up for $5.99 .
Or any dirt late model auto racing catalog.
 
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