Setting toe

Is it common for your toe to move in a race night, even if you haven't rubbed wheels?

I set toe using an accutoe with my kid in the kart as directed. I recheck the laser after I lock it down tight.

I still find it will move 1/16 from the time in leaves my garage to the next race prep.
 
Is it common for your toe to move in a race night, even if you haven't rubbed wheels?

I set toe using an accutoe with my kid in the kart as directed. I recheck the laser after I lock it down tight.

I still find it will move 1/16 from the time in leaves my garage to the next race prep.
Here are a few questions that may cause some of your variation. Are you lifting the nose of the kart a couple times after you lock everything down? Are you using the same tires and air pressure each time you check? Are sure the area the area the kart is sitting is the same each time you check toe (scale stand is level and set-up in the same spot)?
 
Here are a few questions that may cause some of your variation. Are you lifting the nose of the kart a couple times after you lock everything down? Are you using the same tires and air pressure each time you check? Are sure the area the area the kart is sitting is the same each time you check toe (scale stand is level and set-up in the same spot)?
I always check toe either on my scales or on the garage floor, both hard flat surfaces. The kart gets lifted up and down at the track of course.

@Phantomforever Pro, not ES
 

Fast 34

Member
When setting toe, put the lock pin in the steering shaft and have the driver pull down lightly on the steering wheel with their left hand. This puts load on the steering assembly and make the toe more repeatable. If you rely just on the lock pin, it will vary 1/16 - 1/8" every time. Also keep in mind that big swings with stagger, camber, clipping a disk or bumpy tracks can change toe without the need of an accident.
 
Good advice. I'd also suggest play/wear in your heims and bearings (wheel and kingpin.)
You'll also notice that a lot of chassis builders will use bolts with threads in the heims rather than the shank of the bolt (which often has a greater diameter.) By using longer bolts, and cutting the excess thread, will tighten the front end up considerably. Using milspec or aircraft hardware tightens these tolerances up even more. In my opinion, threads of a bolt have no business inside a heim or bearing.


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Carlson Racing Engines
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