Setup help please

IM Racing

New member
I'm running an SKE straight rail int. chassis with a kx500 (I know I shouldn't but it's all I could afford). I have 1 1/2" rear and 1/2" front rollout. RF wheel space all the way out and RR 3" off frame LR 1" off frame. I'm 6' 3" tall and have moved axle back to having 2 holes left to go.

I'm having an issue with the LR lifting off the ground when entering the corner. What would you guys suggest to adjust to keep all 4 on the ground? I talked to a buddy and he suggested sliding RR out more. Is this my best bet or maybe other options.

Air pressure is 7 front 10 LR and 12 RR

Thanks for any help you can give
 
what are your weights on your wheels? and I think you mean stagger not roll out that's what your tire measures so like a 11/5.5/6 the roll out is roughly 35 inches
 
what are your weights on your wheels? and I think you mean stagger not roll out that's what your tire measures so like a 11/5.5/6 the roll out is roughly 35 inches

You are correct, I was thinking stagger. I was half asleep typing this. I don't have any weights since we don't have any scales. I don't think it is going to matter much now, my setup guy (dad) is trying some new stuff. Moved axle forward 2 holes and resetting all 4 corners to square (side to side) and starting to adjust from there. We had a new driver in the kart this year and after looking over it today, there were adjustments made that made no sense to us. The chassis was actually set up with the inside higher than the outside. Just made notes of how it was set up and starting over. We are still learning on these karts with big motors.
 
Hard to setup without some sort of scales. Years ago I went to a store and bought 4 bathroom scales, stepped on several to make sure they all weighed me the same so they were somewhat consistant. Had $32 in all 4 and work quite well still. There are things to do in the shop to know what changes change the weight on all 4 corners so you don't need them at the track. When you move the axle forward you put more weight to the rear tires and it will tighten the kart up some just so you know.
 
you are kind of throwing darts blind folded without putting it on the scales. also with adjustments you shouldn't really do a bunch of stuff at once. need to make adjustments one at a time and see what they do if not you will not know what fixed the problem and will keep chasing your tail and go nowhere fast
 
I've never scaled my kart, but it wouldn't hurt because you don't know if chassis has been tweaked if you bought it used. The straight rail is fine, I ran one for a couple of years and had great success. I only switched to offset because of resale as no one wanted to buy straight rail. Kyle at SKE could help you with scale numbers.
 
Kevin your left rear is lifting for one of two reasons or maybe a combination of both. (the amount of cross or the amount of castor) either of these will cause the left rear to hike on entry.
 
IMHO you don't need scales for an outlaw kart.....All I use is an old 9/16" wrench to measure the gap in my front spindle heights. Everything else is done off measurements or "notches" as well. The setup windows is so big on these things you'll spend more time worrying about minute little things like 0.2% of cross weight etc for nothing. Keep it balanced and don't go to extremes on your settings (ie right side of axle all the way up and left side all the way down, etc) and you won't have problems. Now ya....if it's bent....that's another story.
 
Are you running a small high grip track? Are you a larger fellow? Is it an intermediet kart?

I run a straight rail SKE with lots of luck. Scales are not necessary is kart is not bent. I have owned three SKE straight rails and won on all of them. Good kart.

Brandon Hetrick

Outlaw Karts Unlimited
 
Yes I'm "healthy" LOL 220#, int. kart, on indoor bullrings with decent grip towards the end of the weekend. Kart is straight, I just need more time in it I think. We only make 4 or 5 races a year so I'm a little behind on learning. We are running this coming weekend and I'll post what the changes we made/make do for us.
 
Are you tight? Meaning do you turn the wheel and the kart doesn't feel like it wants to turn? I have ran some of those bull rings in Texas and the more dope on the track, the tighter they get. Slide that RR out an inch and put 15-20 pounds in it. See if it gets better.
 
That is asking alot out of an int. they were designed for small drivers and low horse power. They can be very fast with a small driver and a 500 on slick tracks. I run straight rail open frames.

I would get the whole kart as low as possible and pull your axle back as far as you can. Drop your seat (Not uncommon for the bottom of the seat to be slightly lower than the frame rails with as high off the ground they sit). Move Right side tires out, harder RR and higher RR air pressure.

That is not what I run but I am a lot smaller and have an open. My RR is about rubbing the frame, I weigh 140 and am 5'8" so I don't transfer near the weight.
 
lookin for help im new to cage karts goin from flat oval kart, are gear different tire pressures from concrete to dirt?
 
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