Setup help

Just got a TritonJr and looking for some setup help.

Planning to run at the Burris 33 South East tour at Clay City Ky on 8-15-20.
1/6th mile
Red Clay Oval with decent banking. Here is a video of the track that I found on-line.
Clay City Kartway

Driver 105 pounds
Jr3 - Blue Plate

Does anyone have a good baseline setup that I could put into the kart before arriving at that track?
 
Just got a TritonJr and looking for some setup help.

Planning to run at the Burris 33 South East tour at Clay City Ky on 8-15-20.
1/6th mile
Red Clay Oval with decent banking. Here is a video of the track that I found on-line.
Clay City Kartway

Driver 105 pounds
Jr3 - Blue Plate

Does anyone have a good baseline setup that I could put into the kart before arriving at that track?
Are you racing it now elsewhere ? If so is it running good ? If not what handling issues are you having ? Have you scaled it already ? If so what are your current numbers and cambers ?
 

gcashwell

Member
nope. I don’t even own it yet. This will be a first time for everything.
This is a little off topic, but the BSET is some fantastic competition. If things don’t go well, don’t sweat it. One of the best parts is there is a tech inspection in the morning, so your kart will be checked for safety.
 
We had good speed for Jr 3 won a lot of races with the Triton Jr here in Pa good gripping clay tracks on Burris and Maxxis with, Set rear hub spacing first before scaling with tires on RR 1/4" from inside edge of wheel to frame, and LR 3/4" inside edge of wheel to frame, top rear seat 9 1/2 " off top of axle, 1 1/2 " front stagger, rear stagger track depended ( to scale have tires staggered and air set at 6lb rights 5 lb lefts, weight's high on seat sides, and under very front of seat below drivers thighs, if needed on back of seat 2/3 rd way up, 47 .2 % nose, 58.5 % left, 64 % cross, 2.65 RF neg camber, .25 LF pos camber, 7 & 10 caster, toe out the RF 1/8 ", keep BITE in the tires, there is what I would call a more aggressive set up that works well for some as well, but there more experienced being newer to it I would start here and see how it goes.
 
We had good speed for Jr 3 won a lot of races with the Triton Jr here in Pa good gripping clay tracks on Burris and Maxxis with, Set rear hub spacing first before scaling with tires on RR 1/4" from inside edge of wheel to frame, and LR 3/4" inside edge of wheel to frame, top rear seat 9 1/2 " off top of axle, 1 1/2 " front stagger, rear stagger track depended ( to scale have tires staggered and air set at 6lb rights 5 lb lefts, weight's high on seat sides, and under very front of seat below drivers thighs, if needed on back of seat 2/3 rd way up, 47 .2 % nose, 58.5 % left, 64 % cross, 2.65 RF neg camber, .25 LF pos camber, 7 & 10 caster, toe out the RF 1/8 ", keep BITE in the tires, there is what I would call a more aggressive set up that works well for some as well, but there more experienced being newer to it I would start here and see how it goes.
Thanks for the reply. Does that setup work on both flat and banked tracks? From what I can tell Clay City is banked more than most. Or would you just take that setup and adjust for the specific track?
 
Thanks for the reply. Does that setup work on both flat and banked tracks? From what I can tell Clay City is banked more than most. Or would you just take that setup and adjust for the specific track?
Should be good for either, I would not adjust until I tested it, but if flat track and you have a slight push lower RF neg camber a little.
 
We had good speed for Jr 3 won a lot of races with the Triton Jr here in Pa good gripping clay tracks on Burris and Maxxis with, Set rear hub spacing first before scaling with tires on RR 1/4" from inside edge of wheel to frame, and LR 3/4" inside edge of wheel to frame,
Do you know what the overall width of this rear axle setup is? I assume that's not important as long as the chassis's were made to the same spec. Also what was the total weight? I'm still not sure what our minimum weight target is.
 
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Do you know what the overall width of this rear axle setup is? I assume that's not important as long as the chassis's were made to the same spec. Also what was the total weight? I'm still not sure what our minimum weight target is.
Don't remember total axle length but that would be on phantom web site, but kart should have proper axle in it now, Jr 3 most places is 310 to 320 lb ours here is 320 lb.
 
Don't remember total axle length but that would be on phantom web site, but kart should have proper axle in it now, Jr 3 most places is 310 to 320 lb ours here is 320 lb.
thank you for help. I’m just hoping to get a good baseline to start with so that we can get some meaningful seat-time.

You mentioned above placing the weights high up on seats. This is a question that I asked a couple kart racers. Why are weights placed high? It seems to me that the Center Of Gravity needs to be a low as possible. Why is lower weight not better?
 
thank you for help. I’m just hoping to get a good baseline to start with so that we can get some meaningful seat-time.

You mentioned above placing the weights high up on seats. This is a question that I asked a couple kart racers. Why are weights placed high? It seems to me that the Center Of Gravity needs to be a low as possible. Why is lower weight not better?
I answered that in your other thread, because your driver is so small you need some VCG to help weight transfer.
 
We had good speed for Jr 3 won a lot of races with the Triton Jr here in Pa good gripping clay tracks on Burris and Maxxis with, Set rear hub spacing first before scaling with tires on RR 1/4" from inside edge of wheel to frame, and LR 3/4" inside edge of wheel to frame....
I picked up my kart yesterday and the first measurement I tool were these rear wheel off-sets. How exact do these need to be and can these be measured with the wheels "OFF". I took these measuresments the best I could. These measurements are quite difficult and can only be "eye-balled" for the most part. The scale can't be butted up to the wheel edge and the end of the scale is "floating" therefore, I can only eye-ball it.

I'm an engineer in the automotive industry. I accustomed to having "repeatable" measurements and currently I don't. Is there a tolerance? or are these just ball park?

Left Side = 31 mm (1.22 Inches... Just less than 1 1/4")
Right Side = 9 mm (.35 inches ... just less than 3/8")
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Use a go/ no go gauge . Set with wheels on the take wheels of and measure from the hub to frame .
I liked measuring too the cassette, easier then fram and a flat surface .
But yes I can eyeball it . Measurement is + or - 1/16 th max .
 
You don't have to measure the hub spacing on the scales, do that on the stand RR 1/4" inside edge of wheel to frame ( cassette
Hanger ) then same on LR but 3/4 " should be able to eyeball them, but I measure them all the time, not as much tolerance as you show only 1 /16 ", once there set you can take wheels off and measure reference points wherever you choose.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Additionally if you have wheels with no tires mounted you cam measure that way then check hub locations .
All wheels need to be the same though due too mfg tolerances . Differnt brands vary slightly .
 
We had good speed for Jr 3 won a lot of races with the Triton Jr here in Pa good gripping clay tracks on Burris and Maxxis with, Set rear hub spacing first before scaling with tires on RR 1/4" from inside edge of wheel to frame, and LR 3/4" inside edge of wheel to frame,
What size wheels should be used for this measurement? I have two LR sizes.
I have 8 3/4" and 8 3/8".

I get two different measurements based on the wheel that I use.
 
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