Sheering timing advance keys

I have a 212 predator and I've put a .020 up rod, 22 lb springs, air cleaner and pipe. I put a 10 degree advance key in it and sheered as soon as I hit the throttle. Another 10 degree key, same thing. So I figured it must be too much timing for a stock cam so I put a.070 key in it and the same thing. I lapped the flywheel to the crank and torqued it down every time. So the question is, do the timing advance keys just not like stock cams or am I missing something? Thanks in advance
 
Ok thanks. How should I be torquing it? Is the stock torque specs not enough or too much? I've tried everything I can think of. Thanks again Don
 
It's the stock flywheel. Thanks for the info tho I appreciate it. I'm gonna try to lap it again and torque it down. I really hope it works. It definitely needs timing. It's a dog off idle
 
When the rotational torque exceeds the frictional torque capability it will slip. People in the know cringe when they hear someone torquing nut too high with stock cast flywheels! Extremely dangerous for flywheel explosions. But surly you can torque this nut some degree above stock spec … 😳
 
Flywheel is not torqued properly.
I have no idea what the proper torque is on a stock Predator flywheel, but that's the very first part I'd change out - before longer rod, etc.
As Steve mentioned, exploding flywheels are bad news.


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I am not trying to say anything bad!!!!!
When you buy the cheapest engine built in the world! Sold to run at 3750 rpm only.
and you try to make it into a racing engine turning over 5,000 6,000 Rpms, You will need to change some parts to better quality stuff. Flywheel has always been the first thing to change as soon as you disconnect the governor. It was never tested, designed, or intended to turn that many rpms. The Animal or LO206 flywheels were designed to turn over 9,000 rpms. So they don't need replacing.
 
Take the flywheel off and remove the key. Get some fine valve lapping compound and lap the flywheel to the crank. Once lapped in, clean the flywheel bore and crank taper really good with carb cleaner or something similar. Use something that doesn’t leave an oily film. Then put it together and torque the nut to 60 ft/lbs.
 
When the rotational torque exceeds the frictional torque capability it will slip. People in the know cringe when they hear someone torquing nut too high with stock cast flywheels! Extremely dangerous for flywheel explosions. But surly you can torque this nut some degree above stock spec … 😳
All true .
The punny little thread might give up at 85# . I know it's metric , but a 9/16 Diameter is recommended at 57#
 
Okay thanks everyone I appreciate it. I torqued it down to 65# and seems to be working. I just ordered a flywheel this morning. Thanks again
 
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