Slow Acceleration LO206

I definitely can tell that my rear axle is bent. I just ordered a new one and I'll try it out this weekend or next week. I'll also touch the clutch drum after a session to see if its too hot to touch. If it is, how do you prevent slippage?

When setting up the carb, specifically turning the A/F screw, is it 1 full rotation out (CC) from all the way closed (in)?


Have you maintenanced your clutch? (Taken apart, cleaned, de-glaze/sand, re-lube and assemble.)
Lowering the engagement rpm would help it from slipping too long on a standing start, but the springs that you mentioned earlier should put you pretty close.

Watch the Briggs video on Youtube for how to adjust your air bleed screw.
Set your idle at the slide first, then turn the air bleed out until the rpm increases. Lower the idle at the slide and repeat.
Just be sure that when you snap the throttle from idle to WOT (wide open throttle) that there is little to no hesitation (ie lean spot.)
 
Have you maintenanced your clutch? (Taken apart, cleaned, de-glaze/sand, re-lube and assemble.)
Lowering the engagement rpm would help it from slipping too long on a standing start, but the springs that you mentioned earlier should put you pretty close.

Watch the Briggs video on Youtube for how to adjust your air bleed screw.
Set your idle at the slide first, then turn the air bleed out until the rpm increases. Lower the idle at the slide and repeat.
Just be sure that when you snap the throttle from idle to WOT (wide open throttle) that there is little to no hesitation (ie lean spot.)

So this is the timeline of what i did with the clutch.

Before race weekend: Put brand new inferno fire clutch leading position (4blk springs)
After first race day: Swapped out 4 black springs for 2 white and 2 black
After first race of second race day: Cleaned 1/4 raced inferno flame clutch and drum and put that on with 4 black springs leading position
After second race of second race day: Put 2 white and 2 black springs on inferno flame clutch and had the shoes in an X pattern.

Maybe what I'm thinking as clutch slippage is just slow acceleration due to being to lean and a bent axle. Thanks for the tips on adjusting the air bleed and clutch! I also remember now that my air bleed screw is turned 2.5 times out.
 
Even though you are hitting the limiter add another tooth and see what happens. Often time hitting the limiter earlier will give you better starts and also lap times since it helps you through the tight sections. Often times it does not slow you down on the top end.
What is you actual weight when you go across the scales?
 
Even though you are hitting the limiter add another tooth and see what happens. Often time hitting the limiter earlier will give you better starts and also lap times since it helps you through the tight sections. Often times it does not slow you down on the top end.
What is you actual weight when you go across the scales?

So I've tried a 66T and 67T rear and am having the same problem, my actual weigh in is around 364 with a delta of 1lb. Class is 360
 
Have one of the fast guys drive your Kart and see how he does.
 
Have one of the fast guys drive your Kart and see how he does.

That's a good idea. Last race season before I got my kart, I was in one of the 206 rentals(top kart chassis) and was in the mid pack. I'm fairly confident something is not right with my kart, but I know I have a lot of improving to do as a driver also
 
You have to get your engine hot before the launch. A colder engine will not put out the same power of one that's up to temp. Don't discount aero drag. If you're taller/bigger than the rest, your body will be like a parachute. When the green flag drops scoot the seat.
 
Just wanted to update the thread. I was able to go to the track this past Saturday and while working on the kart to replace the bent axle, I noticed a lot of other things not right with the kart. I'll list them so it's easier to see.

1. Bent axle
2. Left rear axle bearing was gone (grinding)
3. Bent brake rotor
4. Missing and "sharked" tooths on the gear i was using during my race (see picture)
5. A/F screw turned CC 3 full turns (too lean)

I was able to get some sessions in after fixing everything but unfortunately the track orientation changed so I wasn't able to compare my lap times. I did feel less bumpiness and faster existing corners.
gokart gear.png
 
How do you start ? Do you have the foot off the brake, and at green go full throttle ? Try just before the green, foot and the brake and foot on the throttle, when the flag is waved, let off the brake and keep the throttle down.
 
I have my foot lightly pressing on the brakes and I try to keep the throttle at a constant rpm right before I feel the kart start moving.
 
Hey so I just wanted to update everyone after the recent race weekend. After fixing all the issues the kart felt much more competitive, and I even got the 2nd fastest of the day in my class (206 senior)!

I learned a valuable lesson of always inspecting every detail of the kart before going on the track.
 
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