Small block open /modified clone build?

Hey guys! First year in karting! We pretty much wrap up our final race this weekend - No stopping us in points - we got a lock on 1st place! I would like to Thank Chris Cooper and everyone here at 4cycle for the help this year!

I'm buying a 2nd kart - with the help of Chris I'm turning out current kart into a NKRA clone kart and the other I wanna run as a small block open!

I would like some advice on wear to start with a small block open - our class rules are ( any small block - must start life at or below 7.5 hp )
Other then that I believe you can do what you want!

Iv looked into animals / clones / predator
Not sure wear to start? Wear do these engines make power ( cam and heads ? )

The guys running in the class claim they are making close to 30hp.....

I have a very nice ppm ducar ( stock build ) engine - but it's be worked over ( loved and massaged )..... It only has about 3 nights of racing - thought about doing some cam and head work to it!?

Anyone got any good advice or pointers!
 
If the other guys are running animals a clone will be left in the dust
These guys engines are built pretty healthy! They sound wicked as hell and they are stupid fast (low 9s 1/10th track at 47 mph)...... One of the head guys said I need about 3k plus just to compete.
 
What other classes are at your track? I am running stock appearing at my track but stock appearing rules vary by track. At the track I run at the only thing that serrated me from a open motor on my new motor is carb which really limited you because with a big carb you can make a whole lot more power because you have a whole lot more air which opens you up to more mods
 
Which makes prices cheaper, I will have around 1750 in my motor after I put the clutch on it and everything that includes top plate fuel pump all my fuel lines, parts, clutch, motor, chain guard and motor mount
 
Build a stroked model 15 Briggs. Everything on the outside looks like an Animal, it uses the same blower housing. That will be the most power you can get but you may have trouble putting the power to the ground.
 
As far using existing short block, you will constantly be finding the next weak point.

Minimum needed is billet rod, forged piston. Crankshaft for stock clone susceptible to breakage in stock motor.

To get your feet wet, do not go too wild on the build. Choose durability over max power. Depending on your skills and tools available, this means living away from the edge. As you gain driving skills, and engine knowledge, you can build off the base with cams and necessary spring upgrades.
 
I would say the animal or the big tilloston engine .
That said i have a modified predator also . Which they are plentiful with lots of support .
Parts availability for the predator is probably best follwed by the animal with the tilliston being only from EC that i know of .
With a modified /Open your not able to do the majority of your own work the cost doubles up fast .
Parts all cost about the same .
 
What other classes are at your track? I am running stock appearing at my track but stock appearing rules vary by track. At the track I run at the only thing that serrated me from a open motor on my new motor is carb which really limited you because with a big carb you can make a whole lot more power because you have a whole lot more air which opens you up to more mods
We will run thing if 3 or more show up.....
Are main karts are small block open ( there more consistent on who is gonna be there ) 5 to 10

Our kids classes are pretty heavy!

Stock predator ranges anywhere between 6 and 15 karts a night.......

Clone class is hit and miss - 4 to 8 karts.

Probably the best prepared track in Oklahoma! Hands down! Come on out
 
I would say the animal or the big tilloston engine .
That said i have a modified predator also . Which they are plentiful with lots of support .
Parts availability for the predator is probably best follwed by the animal with the tilliston being only from EC that i know of .
With a modified /Open your not able to do the majority of your own work the cost doubles up fast .
Parts all cost about the same .
I was looking at a tilloston 225r - making 15hp new...... Wear is most power made? Head and cam? Yea it's been my experience so far that - machine work is going to be my biggest enemy...... That why I want start with the best short block..... I was thinking real hard about getting a animal short block and dropping a ppm billet head on it with a good cam. The animal is build with racing in mind? That tilloston 225r is race built as well?
What's your thoughts?
 
As far using existing short block, you will constantly be finding the next weak point.

Minimum needed is billet rod, forged piston. Crankshaft for stock clone susceptible to breakage in stock motor.

To get your feet wet, do not go too wild on the build. Choose durability over max power. Depending on your skills and tools available, this means living away from the edge. As you gain driving skills, and engine knowledge, you can build off the base with cams and necessary spring upgrades.
Was kinda my thoughts exactly - I was gonna build for 9k rpm and only run it at 7500 to 8k (something like that)! I 💯 agree with this!
 
Build a stroked model 15 Briggs. Everything on the outside looks like an Animal, it uses the same blower housing. That will be the most power you can get but you may have trouble putting the power to the ground.
Never mind was thinking of something else.
 
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Was kinda my thoughts exactly - I was gonna build for 9k rpm and only run it at 7500 to 8k (something like that)! I 💯 agree with this!
For basic, get your feet wet in the class, an animal with a cam swap to 308 dyno or similar will get you going. A carb change is also in order.

Most times in these classes, finishing is far more important than outright speed.

You can get discouraged easily if you are not finishing because of engine problems.
 
I would say the animal or the big tilloston engine .
That said i have a modified predator also . Which they are plentiful with lots of support .
Parts availability for the predator is probably best follwed by the animal with the tilliston being only from EC that i know of .
With a modified /Open your not able to do the majority of your own work the cost doubles up fast .
Parts all cost about the same .
This? https://www.gopowersports.com/225rs-tillotson-engine-long-block/
 
We have everything you need for an open modified. We created a 236cc/14.4ci short block kit that includes:
Tillotson 72mm/2.835" Bore Block
72mm/2.835" Tillotson Racing Piston
EC Forged Connecting Rod with Babbit Bearings
58mm/2.283" Stroke Crankshaft
Stock Side Cover/Bearings/Tappets/Hardware
Retail is $370 for this kit https://www.eccarburetors.com/ec-tillotson-236r-engine-kit

We have had our rotating assemblies and blocks win many races. The Tillotson Block won the 2020 Big O and our rotating assembly and block finished in the Top 10 this year's Big O against a field of Billet Animals.

The Tillotson uses mostly honda/clone parts and we carry everything to completely build the engine.
 
We will run thing if 3 or more show up.....
Are main karts are small block open ( there more consistent on who is gonna be there ) 5 to 10

Our kids classes are pretty heavy!

Stock predator ranges anywhere between 6 and 15 karts a night.......

Clone class is hit and miss - 4 to 8 karts.

Probably the best prepared track in Oklahoma! Hands down! Come on out
Im around your area and have run at Coody and 3D. Muskogee Mafia would be good to hit up if you need some parts or help! Scott and his son Jack build some badass karts and engines! I know Jack is all about the open mods and they are a wealth of info and usually have any parts you need! I have a small open mod I will be running at the indoor track this winter if they do it again and may be out at 3D tomorrow to run!
 
Im around your area and have run at Coody and 3D. Muskogee Mafia would be good to hit up if you need some parts or help! Scott and his son Jack build some badass karts and engines! I know Jack is all about the open mods and they are a wealth of info and usually have any parts you need! I have a small open mod I will be running at the indoor track this winter if they do it again and may be out at 3D tomorrow to run!
Muskogee Mafia came up to Twister Alley a few weeks ago for the Boogeyman and they were parked about 5 trailers down and there were som many karts they had and everything was fast. I have seen a lot of there open motor builds and they are the real deal. Those motors are fast
 
Muskogee Mafia came up to Twister Alley a few weeks ago for the Boogeyman and they were parked about 5 trailers down and there were som many karts they had and everything was fast. I have seen a lot of there open motor builds and they are the real deal. Those motors are fast
Thats right I saw them post about it the other day. They are Awesome people and will help anyone! If I get my schedule back to some kind of normal Im looking forward to coming to play with you all at Twister next season!
 
We have everything you need for an open modified. We created a 236cc/14.4ci short block kit that includes:
Tillotson 72mm/2.835" Bore Block
72mm/2.835" Tillotson Racing Piston
EC Forged Connecting Rod with Babbit Bearings
58mm/2.283" Stroke Crankshaft
Stock Side Cover/Bearings/Tappets/Hardware
Retail is $370 for this kit https://www.eccarburetors.com/ec-tillotson-236r-engine-kit

We have had our rotating assemblies and blocks win many races. The Tillotson Block won the 2020 Big O and our rotating assembly and block finished in the Top 10 this year's Big O against a field of Billet Animals.

The Tillotson uses mostly honda/clone parts and we carry everything to completely build the engine.
Mark, you had a Tilly block and 236 rotating assembly finish in the top 10 (6th) at the big small block race at Beaver Creek Speedway last weekend. Granted it's not the Big O but it was a big southeast race full of a bunch of nasty billet headed animals on a big track where HP matters.

We do run a ARC billet side cover and a 3rd bearing support by Sneaks.

We run a stock clone JT158 head casting (tried EVO head but gave up too much torque) that has been worked by Tyler Harshman and Sneaks Racing. Lectron 30mm carb.

Did pretty darn good against all those billet animals. Only 3 cast heads in a field of 20, we qualified 6th, made a run up to P2 early but got shuffled back to P6 where we finished. All were high water marks for the cast head motors.

Turned it 8900 all weekend. Block, crank, rod all have about 15 races on them all turning in that rpm range. We have turned as high as 9200 at Semo Raceway. I freshen springs, seats, retainers, piston, rings, wrist pin every 10 races. I do rod bolts and bearings after every race.

I'm not convinced on the EVO head yet based on my experiences, but I am a BIG believer in the block and rotating assembly.
 
Thats right I saw them post about it the other day. They are Awesome people and will help anyone! If I get my schedule back to some kind of normal Im looking forward to coming to play with you all at Twister next season!
Muskogee Mafia came up to Twister Alley a few weeks ago for the Boogeyman and they were parked about 5 trailers down and there were som many karts they had and everything was fast. I have seen a lot of there open motor builds and they are the real deal. Those motors are fast

DONT BE TALKING ABOUT SCOTT AND JACK LIKE THAT -They will have to start ordering custom oversized helmet's!!! Im good good friends with Scott - I do business with him from time to time if its something i have to have right away ( Most my stuff is online order ) but there has been serval times i needed something right away and Scott made it happen!...... AND YES THEY ARE BAD ASS....
I always (FRIEND OR NOT) do my research and hunting - everyone has a different onion - no one answer is wrong - I just wanna make sure i look at and study all my options.
 
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