specs for a ltd mod animal?

well, I raced it last nite at a brand new track located in Crete Ne, Tuxedo Raceway Park, 1/6th mile and HAD A BLAST! the motor performed flawlessly, didn't poop my pants tho thankfully :), but man all that power just wore this old man out. Cant wait to race it again next Saturday nite!
 
ive got a new tilly 304wx on alcohol on the engine, its got three weekends on it, i'm still having trouble getting it to take off on starts, still wants to stumble, low side is about 2 3/4 out, high at 1 out, how much more out can I safely go on the low side before I run out of threads? ive bumped the idle rpm to about 3100 which helps on the starts, except when everyone gets jumbled up and I have to slow down/hit the brakes momentarily...im gonna say after the build was all said and done, the motor is probably something a little more than a typical "limited mod", but not necessarily a flown blown open, is maybe the 304wx not enough carb? is there a model of tilly that might be better for my motor in anyones opinion? THX!
 
Make sure none of the idle holes by the throttle are plugged.

Also, does your clutch give the engine some room to run up before locking? Or are you already locked coming to the green?

My 304 was giving problems last 2 races.
Went to start Sunday, and throttle shaft was stuck.
Put carb off spare and was good all around.

Need more stickers?!!! Lol
 
Clutch is set up to engage 5800 - 5900....id sure think that would provide for enough "run up"....i actually took the low side needle all the way out, I don't have another right now to compare too, but the end of it doesn't come to a sharp point, almost looks like the tip may have broke off, is that at all possible/common? The high side needle comes to a sharp point....
 
My clutch was not unlocking (too much airgap).

Was going to look at carb needles over lunch, but can't get to it in trailer.
Will look later.
 
5800 – 5900, is that close to peak torque! Does it drop below that rpm when the clutch locks up? If it does, that shows a loss of torque.
 
Sorry it took so long.

Got a look at my 304wxa. It has a blunted low idle mixture screw, about a 1/16th dia flat on the tip.

Like I said, we were having a dead spot on the starts/restarts also. ran great afterwards. changed out to my spare after the throttle shaft got sticky. a 374a. Ran terrific. must just fit my setup better.

I also changed the clutch air gap, so not sure if that wasn't some of the issue.
 
95 shaw said:
Sorry it took so long.

Got a look at my 304wxa. It has a blunted low idle mixture screw, about a 1/16th dia flat on the tip.

Like I said, we were having a dead spot on the starts/restarts also. ran great afterwards. changed out to my spare after the throttle shaft got sticky. a 374a. Ran terrific. must just fit my setup better.

I also changed the clutch air gap, so not sure if that wasn't some of the issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the share, we're making progress with this problem, slowly, but surely. Mine is a 304wxa...its on the workbench ready to go through with a fine tooth comb....
 
I'm working on pop off pressure, how does one measure "fulcrum arm height"? I've read that on 4 cycles that it should be .085. No idea how to measure this.....
 
You need a gauge.
Take a flat piece of aluminum and file a notch .085 deep about an inch long.
Or buy the tool.
Hold it on the carb body over the arm.
You should be able to Google it or ec carb tips or even setting up a walboro for a kt 100 same concept.
 
gave the inside of the carb the once over cleaning, polished the fulcrum arm and inside of the seat that the inlet needle sits in, adjusted the fulcrum arm height to as close to the .085 recommended height as possible......set the low side needle at 2.5 out and high side 1.0 out.....AND IT TOOK OFF LIKE A DREAM...no stumbling or hesitation...and ran up to 8000 rpm without missing a beat....thanks to everyone who shared information and knowledge to get my carb problems resolved.... :)
 
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