frame may be twisting , any axle collars ?
the sprocket is two distinct halfs that need to be installed properly or the tooth spacing ends up wrong .
motor mount flex thrown chains tend to keep coming off .
a new chain and sprocket is in order and a guard.
I knew a guy that put all the axle collars on the left. He said he was slow in all the left turns. I looked and found the brake disk was the only thing holding the axle from sliding that direction lol.
Now you wrote 0.10 which is almost an 1/8" did you mean .010" because that ain't much. If your sprocket is tapered on one side then it's not lined up. You line it up by spinning the axle and making sure there's a gap on both sides on the chain. If it's rubbing one side it'll bevel the teeth.
Is your chain bent, does it get tight then loose as you spin it. Then your axle is bent or the inside of the sprocket needs to get cleaned up with a round file. Is your motor mount sliding around? Chain needs a little slack.
Sorry it is .010..it has a brand new chain on it. Chain does have a tight spot. I had dial indicator on axle, it was only out .002, is that too much? I've ordered a new sprocket anyway. It has axle collars. Frame twisting is an interesting concept. The bevel I was referring to, looks like it was machined that way, it's not the teeth that are beveled. I turned it around, havent been able to test it yet. Thanks for all the good input..appreciate you.
I have found that the master link would foul on the clutch. Hilliard clutch has like a second gear that interfaces with the drum. Since the master link was just a touch wider, it would randomly hit and jump a touch. Move the clip to the other side and the problem went away. Also found that despite a chain guard, the bigger sprockets(74 or 75) could hit the ground on certain bumps causing funny things to happen.
I've already turned the master link around, because it was doing exactly what you said it does on the Hilliard clutch. When new sprocket and hub arrives, I will change it out and inspect everything. Maybe a chain guide/tensioner is a good idea. Or maybe that sprocket is making contact with road surface. Thanks to all of you, I have many things to look for. Cant tell you how much I appreciate the help. Jeff
Chain break tools are inexpensive and a valuable investment and asset for your tool collection.
Throw that master link away before it bites you (and it will.) Press the chain links together with the proper tool and you'll never regret it.
We've got a real nice (made in USA) quality chain break tool in stock if you need. Just call the shop - I'll even cut you a deal on one because I don't want to see anyone get hurt.