stagger

which way, plus or minus. I said 1.25, so, if I'm off a 1/2, you're saying it should be .750 or 1.75? Which one? "For any given night on the track" what does that mean? "Track conditions, track conditions, track conditions". Sounds like you think we don't know that.

It would be nice to hear from somebody else that races that track.

I had a gnawing feeling, when I responded to your challenge, that I wouldn't get a straight answer.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)

Sorry about that Al. I'm short handed at work today. You're on the high side. I'll elaborate as to why when I get home in the A/C.
 
Maybe you can form a track list and put in the suggested range people are running successful there Al. Lets take Paradise for an example, if you do a pole on most common rear staggers for this track and you get 1 1/8- 1 1/2 as the most common answer, provide that info when someone ask what stagger to run.
 
Al, Stagger does two things and only two things:

1. It contributes to ride height.
2. It sets the difference in tire surface speed, between the left and right, rear tires.

Those are the only two things stagger alone does, Al.

Your spread sheet gives you false answers and assumptions, because it only takes into consideration one of the two things stagger does. And it falsely considers an aspect of tire surface speed, because it only relates it to track distance traveled over a given radius.

We race on ovals Al, not circles, they do not have a single > radius < . In fact Al, even our turns do not have a single radius. Your spread sheet Al is totally useless because it's based on a single radius and the tracks we race >do NOT< have a single radius.
 
which way, plus or minus. I said 1.25, so, if I'm off a 1/2, you're saying it should be .750 or 1.75? Which one? "For any given night on the track" what does that mean? "Track conditions, track conditions, track conditions". Sounds like you think we don't know that.

It would be nice to hear from somebody else that races that track.

I had a gnawing feeling, when I responded to your challenge, that I wouldn't get a straight answer.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)

Now I can elaborate on it Al.

This particular track is a very VERY low bite track. It's very slick. It never has calcium put on it and the water that it gets is drawn from a creek. Thus it is silty. It's only once in 10 blue moons this track will gain grip. 999 out 1000 times it looses grip as the night goes on.

I agree with you that the numbers add up to around 1.25 on stagger. Or at least close to it. My math varies slightly. A little less than yours.

Because the track is low bite, it will lack grip in the back in unless you absolutely kill the tires with prep. And that's not going to produce the best results. So in order to better control the rotation of the back of the kart we will start out on a lower stagger than the math calls for. More often than not, 7/8 is a good starting point. After one round of practice and one heat, the track has lost more grip. Again it gets looser. So to further help settle the back of the kart down come feature time, we can take out about n 1/8 of stagger and roll on.

Scenarios such as this, is why you see Ken ask so many questions about the track and how it does as the night goes on. Often times the scenario will be right opposite of this and you can add stagger as the track bites up and gets faster.
 
(racing promoter) thanks for you help with the stagger...now can you help me with the clutch...i have what is called a "rock star" made by Gecker...currently i have red springs...can you help me with spring height and air gap...it's a 2 disc and 4 springs...still running that 1/8 mile oval in clone lite/med...do i need to add any weights...thanks

In regards to the clutch question, the red springs should be fine. You want about a .035 air gap. I would start the springs at about .280 and adjust from there. You want an engagement of app. 3800 RPM
 
In regards to the clutch question, the red springs should be fine. You want about a .035 air gap. I would start the springs at about .280 and adjust from there. You want an engagement of app. 3800 RPM

The actual engagement rpm would depend on his engine and where it makes peak torque, i have never had one that needed to engage at 3800, that was too much engagement for every engine iv had and used. Normally, 3400-3600 is where most clone engines work the best and make their peak torque, especially with lighter weight classes, but it really depends on the build and the weight of the driver. He did say he ran lite and medium clone, which would normally call for a lower engagement also, i would think 3500-3600 would be better than 3800, i run clone lite and medium myself, same clutch and springs. The air gap you gave is correct though. He needs to talk to his builder and ask the builder where the clutch needs to engage to be accurate. 3800 just simply is usually too much for a clone lite or medium driver.
 
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