stalling trouble

B

Brian S

Member
on my dads world formula engine, in run pos, if i slowly get on the throttle it works just fine, but if i slam on the throttle, the engine stalls. Ive soaked the jets, and played with different ones, and the problem never goes away, should i take the whole carb apart and soak the entire thing? Thats really my only option because i got a new carb and it didnt even run on it. also im running pump 87, should i be running 91 all the time?
 
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heres a pic of the engine, also has IKF stamps on the back of the block.
 
steve baker said:
Not sure about your stalling problem, but if you run that motor hard without that head heat shield your going to have a bigger problem.
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ive just been testing it, i gotta find a bold for the heat sheild, also im running 4t raceing oil, i have super green and hurricane meidum, would i get any added performence from oil?WIN_20230704_18_01_25_Pro.jpg
 
DO NOT change oils! (At least not without first flushing the entire engine thoroughly before changing.) Different base stocks can repel one another and cause serious engine damage. Don't chase performance with oils. Go with what your engine builder recommends. The 4T that you are currently running is very good oil.
If the engine is stalling and/or stumbling upon rapid acceleration, then it's probably too lean. Could be a simple clip adjustment on the needle, or something plugging the jet(s) specifically the pilot jet.
"Soaking" the carb isn't a good way to clean it.
Take it somewhere that can ultra-sonic clean the carb for you and set it up correctly for your application.
If you can't find someone local, then you can always send it off to us and we can get the carb right for you.


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Put the muffler back on, unlikely the issue but you aren't gaining anything but hearing loss by taking that off. Checked the valves? Anyone try to adjust the timing? When timing is too low its sluggish at low rpm like you are experiencing
 
BackBayou said:
Are 4T and Klotz oils compatible? Thanks for any info.
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see post #5.
DO NOT change oils! (At least not without first flushing the entire engine thoroughly before changing.) Different base stocks can repel one another and cause serious engine damage. Don't chase performance with oils. Go with what your engine builder recommends. The 4T that you are currently running is very good oil.DO NOT change oils! (At least not without first flushing the entire engine thoroughly before changing.) Different base stocks can repel one another and cause serious engine damage. Don't chase performance with oils. Go with what your engine builder recommends. The 4T that you are currently running is very good oil..
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
DO NOT change oils! (At least not without first flushing the entire engine thoroughly before changing.) Different base stocks can repel one another and cause serious engine damage. Don't chase performance with oils. Go with what your engine builder recommends. The 4T that you are currently running is very good oil.
If the engine is stalling and/or stumbling upon rapid acceleration, then it's probably too lean. Could be a simple clip adjustment on the needle, or something plugging the jet(s) specifically the pilot jet.
"Soaking" the carb isn't a good way to clean it.
Take it somewhere that can ultra-sonic clean the carb for you and set it up correctly for your application.
If you can't find someone local, then you can always send it off to us and we can get the carb right for you.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
www.youtube.com
34 years of service to the karting industry ~ 1Cor 9:24
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
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No engine builder for this, ive done all the work on it and i have been thinking about flushing the block out. What im doing right now is replaceing all the fuel lines and cleaning the coil, also the coil is so old it doesnt tell the gap on it unlike the newer coils, also ive ben running pump 87 and im going to put some octane booster d try it out tomorrow and ill post the resualts on the changes ive made. carb is also old and everything is orginal, here are some pics from the carb if you notice anything different.
 

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racinnut15xm said:
Put the muffler back on, unlikely the issue but you aren't gaining anything but hearing loss by taking that off. Checked the valves? Anyone try to adjust the timing? When timing is too low its sluggish at low rpm like you are experiencing
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nope, valves are just fine and no one has gone near that timeing, all orginal, also the muffeler is near its end anyways haha.
 
Not saying that this is your problem, but I had an Animal giving me fits. After spending hours working on carb, fuel pump, etc., it turned out to be the spark plug wire. I would have sworn up and down it was a fuel problem!
 
BackBayou said:
Are 4T and Klotz oils compatible? Thanks for any info.
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I don't know. I've actually got the same question with DynoK & 4T currently.
Rule of thumb: If you are not sure if two oils are compatible, then be sure to thoroughly flush the engine with mineral spirits. You can follow that with some brake clean or acetone for quicker drying if needed. Then put in the proper amount of oil that you plan to race with. Get the engine and oil warm, and drain it. Refill with new race oil and you're now ready to go.
 
Brettm57 said:
Not saying that this is your problem, but I had an Animal giving me fits. After spending hours working on carb, fuel pump, etc., it turned out to be the spark plug wire. I would have sworn up and down it was a fuel problem!
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This was exactly my last Tech Talk Tuesday article for our Facebook page. It's the easiest to check yet always seems to be the last thing looked at.
 
racinnut15xm said:
How many turns out is the screw in the bottom? What clip is the needle on?
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All the way in because the needle will fall out, so all I mess with is the clip. I will prob take the thing to Jerry for a while lookdown
 

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Brian S said:
there is a new O-ring from the new carb, buts its 4 months old and its stuck in there. is there anyway i can get it out?
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A dental pick or pick set from harbour freight . a shot of lubricant will help .
a small bent peice of safety wire . Be certain to have one on hand as it will likely get ruined on removal .
 
If your stalling issues in on the stand, it is not an issue. The W/F will stall if going from idle to WFO on the stand. I bet if you put the choke in the 1/2 position, it will not do it. The WF is very lean on the bottom. Put a 40 jet in it and it will help clean up the problem.
 
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