Switching to Tillotson

Correct me if needed .
The low also is adding fuel even at full throttle .
An adjustment here would lean the top out some as well .

Any possibility something else is wrong as it serms to be the same issue .
Shuting off at full throttle
 
flattop1 said:
Correct me if needed .
The low also is adding fuel even at full throttle .
An adjustment here would lean the top out some as well .

Any possibility something else is wrong as it serms to be the same issue .
Shuting off at full throttle
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Yes, but we don't want to affect the low side if it's accelerating with no issues. That's why i wanted to know where the high side setting is set. Keep going in on the high. Even if you have to shut it off and run off the low.
 
Mark @ EC said:
HL-304wx-11
pop-off 8.5-10lbs
fulcrum arm height .065"
Lowside starts at 2.5 you may need to be 2.25 for your elevation.
Highside starts at 1. if it breaks up(popping) it's lean go out on the needle if it acts like you hit the kill switch(bogs) its rich go in with the needle.
Don't idle the carburetor, keep it running with the throttle.
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Hey Mark,
So we just switched over to the HL-360A after a few more upgrades to the engine, and wanted to get your input on starting points for the needles at 5,000 elevation on this one as well. Pretty close to the HL-304WX-11 as you recommended before? We purchased it from your website so i'm sure you know the most about how its set up haha.
 
It's still very rich, they love being fat off the bottom but the trick is to get it to lean out on top. If your HS needle was real tight raise the pop-off and ,or lower the fulcrum arm height .010 That will help the situation and you should be able to trim some some low without giving up any bottom. It's easy to underestimate what 5000 ft elevation will do to your jetting. When you make another 50 or so degree's head temp it will run on top till you lift. I set up HL357 tillys for stockers on alky in Tenn and we built carbs for some racers in Denver at the time, the Tn. setup was 9 lbs pop-off .065 arm height. Denver setup 14 lbs pop .085 arm. these were very small venturi carbs on flatheads so not exactly relating , but you get the idea.
 
And somehow missed the last post , anyway the 360A is a gasser are you gonna run on gas or convert it over to alky ? the engine would like it flow wize.
 
TTCarr said:
So we ran the tilly for the first time Saturday, started 4th in the heat race and made a last lap pass to win it. Bad weather moved in causing the races to be cancelled, but she did the job.
Started the low side 2-1/4 turns out and never missed a beat taking off. High side was at 1 turn out and acted like someone was hitting the kill switch so I kept bumping the screw in about 1/8 turn at a time and it got better, but didn’t go away. Have not done all my post race notes yet but will be seeing where the needle was at tomorrow night.
Engine temp got up to 249° running 8168 rpms. Will be going to a smaller gear for next race, but she did damn good even when cutting out mid straight away, and coming back in about 20-30 ft after.
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I'm not the engine carb/guru some of those on here are, but if it was pooping out at the top end and the motor temp was only 249, that to me, sounds like too rich/too much fuel, add in your at a higher elevation with less air, that would be compounding the problem, I believe that 3/4 out on the high side needle is a normal starting point, maybe try taking it down to 1/2 turn, maybe even a 1/4 turn out, making sure you keep an eye on the motor temp.....where I live is at low elevation, I run my ltd mod with the same carb with the low at about 2 out and the high 1 out to start with, always takes off hard and never misses a beat even at 8000-8100 rpms...many times turn both in about 1/4 if the temp isn't high enough to satisfy me...
 
Jon Brogden said:
And somehow missed the last post , anyway the 360A is a gasser are you gonna run on gas or convert it over to alky ? the engine would like it flow wize.
Click to expand...

We are running Alky. It was ran in SC after the build to do a quick check before it was sent to me and ran a little fat i was told the driver couldnt find the adjustment screws. I will try everyone's advice and get her dialed in!
 
also, keeping a close eye on the inside of the carb for dirt and muck is a must, along with the general corrosion that left over alcohol will cause to the inside of the carb, especially the fulcrum arm, shaft and inlet needle, I clean mine frequently to help assure they function properly, a partially stuck open needle and/or fulcrum arm inside the carb can easily lead to an overly rich, even flooded condition, it was suggested to me to use q-tips and a little toothpaste to clean and polish these carb internals...
 
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