Tech help for local track

jc57

Member
Our small local track has blown up averaging about 50 racers a week. we run a stage 1 predator class with the only things being allowed are governor removal, air filter adapter, and header. We specify that replacement springs can be used however they must me 10.8 springs, not 18lbs, no stretching, no shimming. My question is what are the best ways to tech a valve spring to ensure that they are using a 10.8 spring, i realize a red 10.8 will be slightly more. we have a go no go tool for the carb, and can easily check the flywheel to make sure it isn't billet. the main things we want to tech are the springs, head gasket, flywheel, and timing key. Does anyone have any tips on any tools that would help us with this, or any other pointers on what to look for? we have some karts that have all of a sudden gotten alot faster and are pulling away from the field in the past 3 weeks, which is unusual in this class on a small track.

Thanks for the help!
 
Is there a rule set ?
Simple quick check a caliper measure spring height and diameter and number of coils .
There was a thread where they used a drill bit between the head and block to check for milling and head gasket change .
The compare to known stock part is always a go too , though little Jonny's dad will likely cry about that .

The problem is whatever tech you do someone is going to complain it wasn't fair .
You gotta have some broad shoulders and hard bark to put up with that .
 
You are saying a 10.8lb spring, first you must set an installed height to determine the 10.8 rate, in AKRA the rule is 10.8 at an installed height of .815 If this is what you are looking for then the Larry Jones spring tester is the way to go, but it’s not cheap.. my opinion you’ve already opened up the cheating by allowing rules, the best option to keep cost down is a 5000 RPM limit and a claimer rule
 
No, those spring checkers are not consistent, unless you're using them for a paper weight, pricey paper weight too.
I wasted that money years ago
I'll disagree. I use an earlier version of this same spring tester for everything from flathead springs to clutch springs to 410 sprint car valve springs. It's a GREAT tool. Made by Intercomp and it'll match the old Rimac every single time.
I would say that it works better for heavier springs, but being digital, the accuracy isn't affected by the resolution or range that an analog gauge is designed for. It'll measure 10.8 springs just as accurately as 300# springs.
If there is an issue on light springs, it's that digital gauges will vary after the decimal point, and when you're considering dumping a person in the tech barn over .1#, you'll wish you had an analog tester. With any measuring tool / gauge, you can't blue thumb the thing either, that will make your measurement vary -- for this reason, I like my older style Goodson spring tester with the dial wheel instead of the lever for the quill.

For tech, you should be using the dead weight tool. Talk about over-priced lead paperweight, lol...but it does the job and is the official tool to be used.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
A 10.8 will get a predator to around 6000rpm. A stock with pipe is not making any power there. Is it worth tech for?
 
I'll disagree. I use an earlier version of this same spring tester for everything from flathead springs to clutch springs to 410 sprint car valve springs. It's a GREAT tool. Made by Intercomp and it'll match the old Rimac every single time.
I would say that it works better for heavier springs, but being digital, the accuracy isn't affected by the resolution or range that an analog gauge is designed for. It'll measure 10.8 springs just as accurately as 300# springs.
If there is an issue on light springs, it's that digital gauges will vary after the decimal point, and when you're considering dumping a person in the tech barn over .1#, you'll wish you had an analog tester. With any measuring tool / gauge, you can't blue thumb the thing either, that will make your measurement vary -- for this reason, I like my older style Goodson spring tester with the dial wheel instead of the lever for the quill.

For tech, you should be using the dead weight tool. Talk about over-priced lead paperweight, lol...but it does the job and is the official tool to be used.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
Well you do you Brian, we found it inconsistent on kart valve springs, clutch springs, and super latemodel springs, so it was sold
 
Our small local track has blown up averaging about 50 racers a week. we run a stage 1 predator class with the only things being allowed are governor removal, air filter adapter, and header. We specify that replacement springs can be used however they must me 10.8 springs, not 18lbs, no stretching, no shimming. My question is what are the best ways to tech a valve spring to ensure that they are using a 10.8 spring, i realize a red 10.8 will be slightly more. we have a go no go tool for the carb, and can easily check the flywheel to make sure it isn't billet. the main things we want to tech are the springs, head gasket, flywheel, and timing key. Does anyone have any tips on any tools that would help us with this, or any other pointers on what to look for? we have some karts that have all of a sudden gotten alot faster and are pulling away from the field in the past 3 weeks, which is unusual in this class on a small track.

Thanks for the help!
You created a problem for yourself with the very first alteration of removing the governor. That’s water over the dam now so let’s look at other things. The only way to be consistent with checking springs IS to use the clone spring tester. As for the timing cheating is right there because you allowed an aftermarket air adapter thus more jetting is needed and to make that jetting work timing advance is necessary. That means an offset key in the flywheel. To find that you need to pull the wheel OR I have a tool that can read the timing from the spark plug hole. I can’t help but wonder how ya gonna keep an eye on the cam?
 
Just heard a rumor the gen3 predator will turn a few hundred rpm more and float the valves harder without damage due to the stock automotive style keepers. With 3 generations of stock, who knows what's legal.
 
If a person chucks a stock gen2 flattop high compression piston into a gen3 block with higher rpm valves, that's still stock right?
 
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