TECH UPDATE: Hubs, Studs, & Impact Wrenches

James@PRC

Site Supporter
Over the years, the tendency in the pits has evolved from using hand held ratchets to high powered battery operated impact guns for tightening wheels. For obvious reasons, the battery operated impact gun has become the choice for most teams. The speed and ease of an impact gun allows for quicker changing of tires in the pits.

Like most things in life, battery operated impact guns come in a variety of sizes and are available in different speeds, voltages, sizes, and price ranges. As with most power tools: the higher the voltage, the stronger the tool. For example, a 10 volt impact gun will not supply as much torque as a 12 or 14 volt. But, bigger may not always be better for our specific application.

99.9% of domestic racing karts use ¼-28 wheel fasteners. Some have different configurations and mounting designs, but nearly all use a ¼-28 fastener. We did some quick research on the recommended maximum torque specifications for various ¼" fasteners. The highest torque spec that we could find for this fastener was 12 ft-lbs or 144 in-lbs. Then, we also did some research on the torque output for three of the battery operated impact guns commonly used by karters. See the chart below:

Impact Brand----------Type----------in-lbs of Torque
Recommended-----------------------------144
Wheel Stud Torque
Bosch-------------------10.8V-------------800--------------------------555% overkill
Makita-------------------12V-------------1,110-------------------------770% overkill
Dewalt-------------------12V-------------1,150-------------------------798% overkill

That makes it pretty clear. These impact guns are 500-800% over-powered for the application. This is why racers commonly deform hubs, strip nuts and break studs. A fastener rated for 144 in-lbs will simply not hold up to 800+ in-lbs!

Another component that compounds this problem is aftermarket “big” ¼-28 nuts which use ½” sockets. We’ve discovered that the thread pitch of these aftermarket nuts is slightly off; which requires excessive over-torqueing on the studs to tighten the nuts properly. We recommend using common ¼-28 nuts with a smooth flange (PN 1115152).

The secret to tightening your lug nuts properly is control. A quick zip that allows the hammer to hit for just a split second on each nut is enough to secure the wheel. A good rule of thumb when tightening your wheels is to start each nut by hand, then tighten the nut by using the impact (to avoid cross-threading). The ratchet hammer should hit 6 to 10 times, no more. Do this one time for each wheel nut and stop. Don't keep going over the pattern again and again. If you're unsure about it the first time, get a socket and ratchet out and check it. Once you get used to it, it will become second nature, and you will never have a hub and/or stud problem.
 
Haha gotta tell my helpers to read this !! Have 1 guy that thinks you have to hammer them on there.

Thanks for the info !
 
Anyone else have problems with the new hubs? Brand new triton and both LF and RF hubs can barely take a wheel on and off...never had any problem in the past with my phantom equipment i guess just gonna have to really make sure nothing gets over tightened
 
Anyone else have problems with the new hubs? Brand new triton and both LF and RF hubs can barely take a wheel on and off...never had any problem in the past with my phantom equipment i guess just gonna have to really make sure nothing gets over tightened

That sounds like they may have been over tightened causing the studs to stick in the wheel... Look at the studs to see if they are angled toward the center of the hub (instead of parallel to the spindle). If they are, then the hub is slightly bent where the studs go through...
 
Yeah I'm having lots of problems with my new hubs on my triton.
Anyone else have problems with the new hubs? Brand new triton and both LF and RF hubs can barely take a wheel on and off...never had any problem in the past with my phantom equipment i guess just gonna have to really make sure nothing gets over tightened
 
Yeah I'm having lots of problems with my new hubs on my triton.

The above post is exactly what's happening to any of the newer style hubs with the press-in type studs, which was the reason for the original post. If you over-torque on your lug nuts or use the aftermarket "big" nuts, you will probably have an issue with bending the "ears" or lobes of the hub which contain the studs. We've never had any issue with any of our in-house karts, which use the same exact hubs and studs as our customers. You just have to be careful with your impact.

James
 
I've never had any issues with a 12V impact myself although I'm careful not to over tighten the studs.

A few comments on the stud design:
- When we designed the wheel hubs we followed what works in many other applications: press in, high strength stud, softer nut.
- The reason for the softer nut is to let the nut take damage (cross threading) and wear rather than the stud as they're far less expensive.
- If you're using a really hard nut then you end up in a situation where the stud and hub take the abuse rather than the nuts.
- Another reason for the press in stud is that if a thread is damaged, the stud can be removed without damaging threads in the hub (this is very common on the thread through style used by many other hub designs; basically if a bolt is damaged then it tears up the threads in the hub as it's removed).
- Yet another reason for the stud design is they are higher strength than a typical grade 5 fastener
- With respect to torque, 144 in-lbs (12 ft-lbs) is pretty accurate for a 1/4 fastener. Just to put this in perspective, this is about 1-1/2 gallons of water hanging on the end of a 1 ft long wrench - not much. The higher volt impact guns are designed for car wheel studs which require 80 ft-lbs, not 12.
- If the nut doesn't fail and the stud doesn't fail but the stud is pulled into the hub then what is actually happening is that so much force is being put on the aluminum hub that the aluminum is being pushed out of the way. Yielding the aluminum in the hub is obviously way too much force.

Todd
www.dynamicsofspeed.com
 
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