the softest prep?

If you need them that low or lower,and I have some lower, 45 cc to 60 cc Internal, get a good many wipes on them in the shop with a medium prep, then cap them with aggressive a few at the shop, then the aggressive and heat at the track.
Once this is done you will only run those tires on real low bite situations no matter how long they cure out, you cannot only gauge off Durometer.

Good Luck !!
 
willamrheawe said:
i want to know what types of prep will cause a burris 33a to be -40 duro?:confused:
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Our Monster Bite will drop them 2-3 points per wipe.

Plenty of folks in Indiana kill their tires with goat or green; that'll definitely knock them down that much, but also depletes the oils from the rubber and they'll bounce back up in duro over time.

I prefer to use something (Monster Bite and/or Black Bite 2.0) that will allow me to re-use the same set of tires if needed that night. The goat/green deal makes them pretty much once and done for the night. Re-applying and re-using those same tires generally gets them sticky like chewing gum and the car loses roll speed.

-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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29 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
ill chech your site but i kinda want them to bounce back because of some track like harder tires where is the prp section

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ok thanks
 
willamrheawe said:
ill chech your site but i kinda want them to bounce back because of some track like harder tires where is the prp section

- - - Updated - - -

ok thanks
Click to expand...
The amount of chemical and harshness it takes to get them down they will never make any speed on a harder track with even medium grip race surface.
 
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A Burris 33 is one of if not the most chemical sensitive tire there is, once you get harsher chemical down into the tire it won't go on a better gripping surface, don't matter what the duro is, your getting hung up on duro reading to much don't chase duro you'll get all screwed up, learn what to use application method and volume for each track to make speed it's not just wipe them to 40 and go be fast.
 
Just call the shop and I'd be glad to help you personally.

What Ken said above is right on. Duro is only a part of the equation - and a small part at that.

If you've goated a tire to knock it way down (10 pts.) in duro, then it will not be fast when you need a hard tire. Now, those goat tires punching 40 this week can be hit again in two weeks and be used again, but they really need to cure/dry out before they will be fast again (even at 40d.)
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
Just call the shop and I'd be glad to help you personally.

What Ken said above is right on. Duro is only a part of the equation - and a small part at that.

If you've goated a tire to knock it way down (10 pts.) in duro, then it will not be fast when you need a hard tire. Now, those goat tires punching 40 this week can be hit again in two weeks and be used again, but they really need to cure/dry out before they will be fast again (even at 40d.)
Click to expand...

Here ya GO can't beat this with a stick !! Thanks Brian
 
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