When I built my "house" engine, I had a valve float problem. In the process of fixing it, I swapped heads to one that had been milled too much to pass cc check. I put three thin gaskets to get it up to legal cc's, and it made the same power as the other one. I don't think the "quench" is as critical as a lot of people do. Now this is just my opinion...
Usually running a thicker head gasket is used after milling the head, for piston to valve clearance, or getting your cc's correct.
Not a performance enhancer unless you are tweaking for some extra compression or less cc's.
It would depend on how you equalized the cc's You have to deck it, mill the head or change the piston head shape. Example going from dished piston with small gasket to a flat top with a thick gasket changes chamber shape.
Mine has been thick for better seal and I had two motors. One I did and one by a top builder that the piston hot the head and caused rod to seize. Not break but seize from squeezing the oil out when piston would hit head.
Yes, but on a stocker I will leave the piston .010 in the hole with a thin gasket. I also copper coat the gasket, which may put a tenth or two on it. That's on a legal engine that shows around a max of 12 to 12.4hp and 6700rpm on my dyno. Above that I go at least .015 in the hole.
I use the thin gaskets even with my milled heads.I have also decked the blocks too.
but have stopped doing that and play with rods and pistons.even though I don't
deck them I still want to get the head as low as I can.My thinking is
with the thick gaskets why put back on what you tried to take off.
your only adding the thicker to make up the room lost for piston
to valve clearance.jmo and others may vary.
I have been thinking a ton on this. There's more horsepower in this area due to alot of things that haven't been brought up. And with the new shim on the valve spring rule it makes me want to try a bunch of other things