Throttle rod to cable connection

RacerXXX

Member
I'm curious.....
Why was the throttle rod to cable connection no longer welded to the frame rail & moved to the floor pan ?
 
It privides a throttle return , the cable deal would be one less connection.
I know what you are saying, but the system with the bigger/stronger spring is on the kart type where you never/hardly ever get off the throttle vs the cable system with a tiny spring on the carb on a kart that you may get fully off the gas 8 times in a lap. Seems backwards if you really think about it. Now, having both, just as I prefer the sniper v2 laser system to the dirt systems for toe/caster/camber, I also prefer the sprint style cable to pedal system. JMO, but if I could fab, I would have a CIK style component dirt kart on the market.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
The throttle rod is a holdover from the model t .
A clockspring or double end spring could return the pedal .
After just finally understanding the v2 system , its nice .
My only concern is removing the wheels and hubs .
Question beings you have one , how do you deal with the wheel offset left to right side .
Thats why the rlv exact toe dosen't work on a oval kart.
 
The throttle rod is a holdover from the model t .
A clockspring or double end spring could return the pedal .
After just finally understanding the v2 system , its nice .
My only concern is removing the wheels and hubs .
Question beings you have one , how do you deal with the wheel offset left to right side .
Thats why the rlv exact toe dosen't work on a oval kart.
I've never got an answer from anyone if it would work on offset chassis. I've asked every chassis manufacturer listed here at Bob's and not 1 will answer that question???

My plan is to set up the first kart here in 2 weeks, then lift it and see the setting on an accutoe, then check it with the v2 and see what I find out. Then take the 2nd kart and set it with the v2 first and see if it translates to the same front geometry when on the ground with the accutoe.

The front spindles, hubs, and spacers are nearly identical, so that isn't a problem. You take off the large nut and pull the hubs and spacers. Takes 30 seconds.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Roger that . Good plan , the bullseye location is what will change from my take .once you have that it should be good . With a light driver i would think you will be fine .
Maybe a new grid you could stick on to compensate for the offset .
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
Roger that . Good plan , the bullseye location is what will change from my take .once you have that it should be good . With a light driver i would think you will be fine .
Maybe a new grid you could stick on to compensate for the offset .
Sprint karts the rear axle is square in the kart, no so in offset, still dont see how they are checking camber and toe without a racer in place?
I dont use either, have no use for either
 
Sprint karts the rear axle is square in the kart, no so in offset, still dont see how they are checking camber and toe without a racer in place?
I dont use either, have no use for either
Doesn't matter if you have a racer in place. What matters is that what you do is repeatable and measurable so you can set it to the optimal settings.
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
Doesn't matter if you have a racer in place. What matters is that what you do is repeatable and measurable so you can set it to the optimal settings.
Well it does matter, the chassis flexes when the driver is in place and both settings change, you dont race it without a driver.
Ive checked both ways, with driver in place and not in place, the numbers are different, do you also scale without the driver in place?
 
It changes going from stand to ground, but if what you set it at on the stand make it what you want it to be on the ground with driver in, it doesn't matter where you set it.

For example, say I have to set it at 1/64 toe-in to be at 3/16 toe-out on the ground with driver, and that is what I want, then I am good.
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
It changes going from stand to ground, but if what you set it at on the stand make it what you want it to be on the ground with driver in, it doesn't matter where you set it.

For example, say I have to set it at 1/64 toe-in to be at 3/16 toe-out on the ground with driver, and that is what I want, then I am good.
you are checking with no driver on the stand, with no tires on how do you know what it reads on the ground? and if youre checking on the ground the sniper system is useless.
I would rather not guess at what my settings may be, I like to know for sure, thats why I made toe plates that are the same diameter as the front tires, all adjustments are made just as its going to hit the track and that is with the driver in place
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
Sprint karts the rear axle is square in the kart, no so in offset, still dont see how they are checking camber and toe without a racer in place?
I dont use either, have no use for either
Don't use a laser or a camber gauge ?
Toe plates a tape measure and angle finder will work .
Just seems like a lot of work when the laser and camber gauge is so quick. .
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
Don't use a laser or a camber gauge ?
Toe plates a tape measure and angle finder will work .
Just seems like a lot of work when the laser and camber gauge is so quick. .
I dont use either laser system, I have a homemade square and toe, a digital level and a special made tool to screw on the spindle for camber, and another special made tool to check caster with the same digital level, all is done on the scale stand, and it doesnt take any longer than setting up a laser
My toe plates are round and and the same size as my R and L front tires, and bolted to hubs
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
There is something too be said for the square and toe .
You can visually see toe in or out .
Knowing the tools your working with is a plus also .
 

XXX#40

TRUMP 2020
There is something too be said for the square and toe .
You can visually see toe in or out .
Knowing the tools your working with is a plus also .
helps having access to a tool and die shop with millions of dollars of cnc equipment too lol
Yeah the square and toe tells no lies, and dont need calibrated
Here is the camber tool, it swivels at that joint
20191216_193259.jpg
 
Top