Tie rod placement/alignment?

1fasttiller

Member
Hi Fellas, Recently bought a new-to-us 2017 Eleanor Chassis for my son and per normal procedure, I'm going through it replacing every part in the front end with new just to make sure when we scale it all is tight and fresh. With this kart I noticed the tie rod ends mounted on the spindles with a lot washers spacing them up. The LF tie rod end was mounted under the spindle arm and the RF tie rod end was mounted on top. What, if any difference does this make? Can I put them both on top? I was always taught to make the tie rods straight and as level as possible. I notice on some PRC pics, they have the ends on top and on bottom, does it matter?
 
Hi Fellas, Recently bought a new-to-us 2017 Eleanor Chassis for my son and per normal procedure, I'm going through it replacing every part in the front end with new just to make sure when we scale it all is tight and fresh. With this kart I noticed the tie rod ends mounted on the spindles with a lot washers spacing them up. The LF tie rod end was mounted under the spindle arm and the RF tie rod end was mounted on top. What, if any difference does this make? Can I put them both on top? I was always taught to make the tie rods straight and as level as possible. I notice on some PRC pics, they have the ends on top and on bottom, does it matter?

No it doesnt.

Placement will be determined by where the pittman arm is welded on the shaft, and the angle which the arms are welded on the spindle, height, etc.

Straight and level is what I always shoot for.
 
Thanks JP, so no advantage to specific placement of the tie rod ends at all? Just cinch them down as close to straight and level as possible, got it!
 
Thanks JP, so no advantage to specific placement of the tie rod ends at all? Just cinch them down as close to straight and level as possible, got it!

There is adjustment by moving the tie rods closer to the king pin, or closer to the steering shaft (quickening steering).

But for 99% of applications, straight/level is where you want to be
 
Hi Fellas, Recently bought a new-to-us 2017 Eleanor Chassis for my son and per normal procedure, I'm going through it replacing every part in the front end with new just to make sure when we scale it all is tight and fresh. With this kart I noticed the tie rod ends mounted on the spindles with a lot washers spacing them up. The LF tie rod end was mounted under the spindle arm and the RF tie rod end was mounted on top. What, if any difference does this make? Can I put them both on top? I was always taught to make the tie rods straight and as level as possible. I notice on some PRC pics, they have the ends on top and on bottom, does it matter?

All you can do is test it as is to see how it makes turning wheels work for binding, movement etc. Then test it with different mounting positions. You may figure out why it was done the way it was when you got the kart. It might be needed or it might not.
 
I spend the time with the tie-rod ends and their spacing just to keep them from binding at lock (not that it happens in a race) and to keep them level. I also have the spindle end spaced for level. Let me ramble around and see if I can find the special washers I use and I'll send you some. It's cold out so don't expect the washer too soon. :cool:
 
I spend the time with the tie-rod ends and their spacing just to keep them from binding at lock (not that it happens in a race) and to keep them level. I also have the spindle end spaced for level. Let me ramble around and see if I can find the special washers I use and I'll send you some. It's cold out so don't expect the washer too soon. :cool:
Thanks Bumpy- I have plenty of those washers, they came on the kart. Of course I didn't pay attention to their placement when I tore the entire front end apart to rebuild... :) Stay warm, its been cold here in Central Florida the last couple of days..... 20's almost kills us!
 
Typically the tighter the turn radius, the more Ackerman you can run. Not saying that is gonna be where max speed is, just common steering geometry theory.

A common number that I have seen over the years is 1 to 2 degrees lf gain at 5 degrees rf input on oval karts.
 
There is a thing called bump steer. With karts its mostly minimal, But, I would guess most of the oval karts are stiff enough that there isnt much flexing going on between the point the bottom of the steering shaft is anchored to and the RF spindle. HOWEVER, if on a soft enough chassis, there can be deflection between the king pin and the inner tie rod, and this deflection will change the toe. Think setting toe on the stand vs on the scale stand or ground, loaded. The more level the tie rod is inside to outside the less this deflection will be.

I rode a soft kart on a banked sprint track that had the tie rods moving up dramatically. Going 7/10's fine, 8/10's ok, lets go 10/10's and spun immediately. It wasn't until a good while later i had figured out why the kart was so evil, when the kart ran into the banking going at seven or eight tenths the deflection was less between the kingpin and the steering shaft. When bumped to ten tenths the deflection was enough to turn the outside front wheel enough to make the kart spin. As if I had applied extra steering lock. The kart went away before proper adjustments could be made or even the extent measured. Would have been interesting.
 
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