Tight condition

numbers are correct with charger. (I own this chassis and have talked to the factory and several pro's about set up) he would be better off taking that camber out of the right front and tightening the front end that way. i agree that he's probably has a prep tire issue but more often than not people suggest adding weight to a pushing front end when the physics of traction don't work that way.
Keep in mind more often than not it's a under loaded RF not overloaded, I'm only pointing it out so the less experienced guy don't think it's ALWAYS as you make it sound, You also need to keep in mind factory numbers do not work 100 % for every kart, and if that chassis manufacture has 6 pro drivers on there chassis , Doubt 2 of them are set up the exact same, maybe 2 of them at best, I'd agree with you after posting all his numbers I'd lower camber in RF to 2.5, however I also would do as Brian recommends and add .5 nose to it ,expecting that to be about 10 % of the issue, for the other 90 % I'd be checking all details 100 % with the current tires I was running for the real problem, and IF there Burris 33s it's simple tires are to fresh.
 
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Keep in mind more often than not it's a under loaded RF not overloaded, I'm only pointing it out so the less experienced guy don't think it's ALWAYS as you make it sound, You also need to keep in mind factory numbers do not work 100 % for every kart, and if that chassis manufacture has 6 pro drivers on there chassis , Doubt 2 of them are set up the exact same, maybe 2 of them at best, I'd agree with you after posting all his numbers I'd lower camber in RF to 2.5, however I also would do as Brian recommends and add .5 nose to it ,expecting that to be about 10 % of the issue, for the other 90 % I'd be checking all details 100 % with the current tires I was running for the real problem, and IF there Burris 33s it's simple tires are to fresh.
adding weight to front end that's PUSHING. is the wrong way to go taking out cross would be a better fix or going back to factory caster if its the right front. however he is only experiencing it midway through the race so.....? he needs to tighten all of his valve cores and figure out tires before adding weight to the front end no? lets give him advice that will work for his situation. yes?
 
adding weight to front end that's PUSHING. is the wrong way to go taking out cross would be a better fix or going back to factory caster if its the right front. however he is only experiencing it midway through the race so.....? he needs to tighten all of his valve cores and figure out tires before adding weight to the front end no? lets give him advise that will work for his situation.
advice that will work for his situation.
I agree 100 % which is why I posted post #16 in the first place.
Once he confirms tire details is when he'll get his best advise for his situation , Earl's already covered that.
 
Keep in mind more often than not it's a under loaded RF not overloaded, I'm only pointing it out so the less experienced guy don't think it's ALWAYS as you make it sound, You also need to keep in mind factory numbers do not work 100 % for every kart, and if that chassis manufacture has 6 pro drivers on there chassis , Doubt 2 of them are set up the exact same, maybe 2 of them at best, I'd agree with you after posting all his numbers I'd lower camber in RF to 2.5, however I also would do as Brian recommends and add .5 nose to it ,expecting that to be about 10 % of the issue, for the other 90 % I'd be checking all details 100 % with the current tires I was running for the real problem, and IF there Burris 33s it's simple tires are to fresh.
Yeah he needs to work tires first.
Need to run as much neg. RF camber as you can and not push, rolling resistance, should only have about 3 or 4 inches that ever touch the track track
 
I would adjust 1. camber 2. air pressure 3. cross 4. caster 5. stagger. in that order if the front end still pushes after he fixies his tires and the problem persists. his problem if not tires is in one of those areas. adding weight will not help at all unless the scales their using are giving the wrong numbers . if adding weight fixes the problem the kart or the driving is not working.
if they move weight to the front they are taking it away from somewhere else and his numbers are off and they will have to work on the whole thing.
 
In my experience with the scythe we’ve tried every set up imaginable!!!

Wrong tires = won’t turn
Right tires = the ole no good thing is ripping
 
Also have to consider if the feature is ran at night it would go further to prove this to be the case.
People chase a kart to much during the night.
This is where studying track tendencies at feature time come into play, and why it's important to pay attention to lap times of other classes to see where the tendencies are going that night, and adjust accordingly for the features, and don't be adjusting for heat races
 
It absolutely sounds like the tires are too soft. Drove a kart for a friend who had some yellow vegas, didnt own a durometer and was just slopping stuff on whenever/whatever. I just felt the tires with my finger nails and could tell he had them too soft. Did exactly as described from OP, was decent the first 5-6laps and really good when it was sloppy wet then went to a dump truck.
 
People chase a kart to much during the night.
This is where studying track tendencies at feature time come into play, and why it's important to pay attention to lap times of other classes to see where the tendencies are going that night, and adjust accordingly for the features, and don't be adjusting for heat races
And the reason you do that is to keep the right tires on it.
 
Tires too soft or fresh, gave up on you.
Earl it was Sugar Tit Saturday. Was on a set of 2 week scuffs internally rolled 105cc RS and 90cc LS. Wiped 4 times with Nall yellow crush conditioner during the week and wiped four times with Nall Black Edge at the track throughout the day. Only ran that set in feature.
 
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