Thanks for the info. I leak checked it and its not leaking on intake or exhaust so Its good and Im leaking 3% into crankcase. Is 3% a good number or should it be lessNormally the new heads are very good but you really can't be sure unless you leak test it.
AL, you're back!!What about the compression pressure? I always kept my snap-on gauge close by. I've been known to say "compression is the holy Grail". It would help to have some comparative readings from your friends. Any loss in compression is never good.
Thank you, it's great to be back.AL, you're back!!
while I don’t always agree with what you say, I’m glad you are still out there sayin it!
Not to high jack the thread, but how often should the top end be rebuilt?
Thanks
Mixing the pushrods shouldn't be a big problem. I like to keep all of my valve train separate -- I use clothes pins for the exhaust side.We just pulled a leaky head ( a ton on the exhaust - a bit on the intake). How clean does the deck need to be before putting the new one on? (with WD40 and a gentle microfiber towel there are just a few specs now I can't even feel with a fingernail). We mixed up the pushrods - they are both steel and seem identical but I'm not sure if we messed up by doing this.
Are there any tips for shipping a head to one of our experts on the board? We've had the valves replaced once already on it but if we can keep using it for racing I'd like to keep it since it has already been heat cycled like crazy.
Noah Stark at NSEW has them.Jim or Brian do you have any LO206 heads that have been heat cycled a few times and the valves seats recut as you say and ready to ship? Will they pass tech?
Thanks
We just got a 2nd head and will start doing this. Makes it a lot easier to schedule maintenance.It sounds like have a spare head would be worthwhile. This way you can install the refresh rebuild and ship the old in for repair. No downtime and if you ever find it leaking at an inopportune time you can simply swap it out between rounds. I have spare of almost everything else why not..
This is GOSPEL !!!Ok NO BS Here:
Taking a new head and heating it in an oven will never settle things in position like actually racing the engine multiple times.
You are wasting your money !!!!!
For anyone to really do it properly to a new head would require many hours of labor and simulating actual race conditions.
If you want to pay for it i'll be happy to do it for you but it will be very expensive.
I would recommend you send me one of yours that has as much time on it as possible and i can freshen that one for you.
It will be the best it can be.
I'm sorry but i do not have any used heads on the shelf for you.
Ok NO BS Here:
Taking a new head and heating it in an oven will never settle things in position like actually racing the engine multiple times.
You are wasting your money !!!!!
For anyone to really do it properly to a new head would require many hours of labor and simulating actual race conditions.
If you want to pay for it i'll be happy to do it for you but it will be very expensive.
I would recommend you send me one of yours that has as much time on it as possible and i can freshen that one for you.
It will be the best it can be.
I'm sorry but i do not have any used heads on the shelf for you.
No. No. No. I understand that the "Hot head" is process for a race seasoned head that has already been heat cycled on the track out the wazoo. The intent is to ensure a seal at operating temperature where it counts. I am considering it for a leaky head we have that has 3 seasons of racing on it. It's not for a new out of the box head.