Box Stock

timing

Too much info to type again. lol
buy my 101 page book on clone vvt cam timing. or pm me a phone number to call ya. Lol
 
The cam card c/l is the info for setting or degreeing in the cam. There are several options to set or change the c/l
 
The gear needs to be exactly lined up with crank gear with the dots facing each other. The gear never changes.

Now for timing with flywheel thats different. And is lengthy as mentioned. Call Clone King.
 
496 BB said:
The gear needs to be exactly lined up with crank gear with the dots facing each other. The gear never changes.

Now for timing with flywheel thats different. And is lengthy as mentioned. Call Clone King.
Click to expand...

Cam timing is adjusted by moving the gear on the crank shaft. Specific numbers are difficult to give as each engine is different. That gear is pressed on at the factory and it's accuracy of placement is as consistent as the rest of the engines quality control.
 
Exactly..
also cam gear is helicut, more side cover to cam clearance adds torque from self advancing the timing under load.

Move the cam towards the flywheel side it adds horse power to top end rpms. retarded timing.
a thousand variables. loly
 
so in short you move the crank gear until you get the open and close numbers as to what the cam sheet says.so is this right for example the cl2 cam sheet says the intake opens at 28.5 btdc and closes at72.5 abdc and the exhaust opens at 66.5 bbdc and closes at 36.5 atdc.so do I just move the crank gear till I get these numbers or is there more to it?
 
Linked are two pictures, the first method I used, aluminum bore split, then clamped over gear by vise, use big adjustable on the web of the crank, gear will rotate with reasonable force. I made a set up that used the side cover bolt holes, an block made from a quartered cam gear turned inward, this was then forced with a threaded adjuster. I could change cam timing on the dyno with out removing the crank. That tool has been sold and I did not rebuild it.
http://s24.photobucket.com/user/meaded/media/torqueplate.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Also on one of the engines on the bench notice the torque plate, I simply bored through a cylinder head, it replicates the bolted on head as accurately as I can imagine.
 
Kart43 said:
Linked are two pictures, the first method I used, aluminum bore split, then clamped over gear by vise, use big adjustable on the web of the crank, gear will rotate with reasonable force. I made a set up that used the side cover bolt holes, an block made from a quartered cam gear turned inward, this was then forced with a threaded adjuster. I could change cam timing on the dyno with out removing the crank. That tool has been sold and I did not rebuild it.
http://s24.photobucket.com/user/meaded/media/torqueplate.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Also on one of the engines on the bench notice the torque plate, I simply bored through a cylinder head, it replicates the bolted on head as accurately as I can imagine.
Click to expand...

Sure would be nice too have a 'keyed' gear....wouldn't it?
 
The keyed gears would be placed with the same accuracy, except there would be more machining operations to compound tolerance errors
 
Kart43 said:
The keyed gears would be placed with the same accuracy, except there would be more machining operations to compound tolerance errors
Click to expand...

Correct....however, it cud be easily 'corrected'! :)

Think abt this....IF 'Modified' picks up! Somebody comes up w/a Crank and Gear package having a keyed crank and the gear is brotched in 3 or 4 options....(alias Jesel etc)! Actually...'Stroker' cranks should have this feature!!
 
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