Tire Diameter Matter

What is this easy process of shrinking an 11 to 32.5 i have about 6 that are 33.75 and cannot get them to shrink.. please help tha ks
There is no "easy" process.....heat and shrink. Take out the valve core, get the tire smoking hot, then shock it in a bucket of ice cold water (or freezer.) Repeat as necessary.
6 11X6.00-6 tires that are 33.75" tells me they were either mounted incorrectly, or stretched previously. That is very large for a 6.00. You may not get them down where you need them at this point, but it's worth a try. Heat, cold, repeat, and pray they don't cook all the oil out of them and they'll end up slow even after all your work.
 
There is no "easy" process.....heat and shrink. Take out the valve core, get the tire smoking hot, then shock it in a bucket of ice cold water (or freezer.) Repeat as necessary.
6 11X6.00-6 tires that are 33.75" tells me they were either mounted incorrectly, or stretched previously. That is very large for a 6.00. You may not get them down where you need them at this point, but it's worth a try. Heat, cold, repeat, and pray they don't cook all the oil out of them and they'll end up slow even after all your work.
I mounted all them with a tire band, even got one on an 8.75 rim thats 337/8 they took alot of air to pop on beads so maybe thats why
 
I mounted all them with a tire band, even got one on an 8.75 rim thats 337/8 they took alot of air to pop on beads so maybe thats why
How much did you tighten the band ?
I measured my band and painted two lines to tighten it to, one at 32” and one at 34”. 32” for the left sides and 34” for the rights. I honestly have never had a left rear come out over 33” with any brand tire.
 
How much did you tighten the band ?
I measured my band and painted two lines to tighten it to, one at 32” and one at 34”. 32” for the left sides and 34” for the rights. I honestly have never had a left rear come out over 33” with any brand tire.
Meant 32 7/8 but no didnt measure basically just tightened the band and far as it would tighten then filled with air with valve stem on till they blew beads on and none of them went on easy lots of wd40 prob 60 plus psi to pop em.. with a little pancake compressor
 
Meant 32 7/8 but no didnt measure basically just tightened the band and far as it would tighten then filled with air with valve stem on till they blew beads on and none of them went on easy lots of wd40 prob 60 plus psi to pop em.. with a little pancake compressor
Ok good lol.
Use window cleaner in a spray bottle, spray the ring, entire tire & beads. wd40 stays oily and sometimes the tire will pop off the bead under load if the track bites up.
60# is nothing, Vegas get up around #120 while seating, scares the crap outta the dog when it pops on.
 
You'll be able to get it to shrink that much, no problem. Follow the advice above.

Mounting Instructions:
Remove the valve core, use a clip on chuck with an extension whip and stand back. OFTEN it takes more than 60psi to bead a Vega. If you warm the tire (set it in the sun or heat it up a bit) will help in making the rubber more pliable so it will bead easier. We use our Green Apple Clean as tire mounting lubricant -- I wouldn't suggest WD40 at all. Just dish soap and a little water would work fine.
Pancake compressors are generally high pressure and low volume. A higher volume compressor would allow you to "dump" air into the tire quicker, which really helps to bead a tire at lower psi.
 
Same stagger different diameter rear tires changes rear ride height and where weight moving to the right when turning is aimed.

Brian isn't what's being talked about the same as if it may be better to put a larger LR on or a smaller RR when a track slicks up and you need to reduce stagger?
Same stagger but do you get there with a larger LR or a smaller RR???

Isn't it also about one of the main difference way back when when you could either run Hoosiers or American Racers with the American Racers generally being not as tall???????
 
You'll be able to get it to shrink that much, no problem. Follow the advice above.

Mounting Instructions:
Remove the valve core, use a clip on chuck with an extension whip and stand back. OFTEN it takes more than 60psi to bead a Vega. If you warm the tire (set it in the sun or heat it up a bit) will help in making the rubber more pliable so it will bead easier. We use our Green Apple Clean as tire mounting lubricant -- I wouldn't suggest WD40 at all. Just dish soap and a little water would work fine.
Pancake compressors are generally high pressure and low volume. A higher volume compressor would allow you to "dump" air into the tire quicker, which really helps to bead a tire at lower psi.
Ty
 
Same stagger different diameter rear tires changes rear ride height and where weight moving to the right when turning is aimed.

Brian isn't what's being talked about the same as if it may be better to put a larger LR on or a smaller RR when a track slicks up and you need to reduce stagger?
Same stagger but do you get there with a larger LR or a smaller RR???

Isn't it also about one of the main difference way back when when you could either run Hoosiers or American Racers with the American Racers generally being not as tall???????
The same principles apply, sure, but with a suspended sprint car you're really changing the roll center with the jacobs ladder. If you've noticed over the last few years, most chassis companies have added spuds to the frame to kick out the ladder and offer some adjustability. Most ladder manufacturers have added pick-up points to their ladders as well. This can be used to free the car up to run on a big cushion or to plant the right rear harder on dry slick tracks. Then you get into the angles of the rear arms and radius rods and timing of the bird cages to drive the car forward. There are so many tuning options available on a sprint car (even more on a dirt latemodel) that simply are not available on a fixed suspension kart. Even still, the ride height is very important on a sprint car. Where you have to (per rules) run a smaller RR tire, you do what you can to accommodate that spec tire - one such tire is the 100" RR used in a Michigan series. Between the McCreary and Hoosier, there was never that much difference in size. The McCreary were 103-104," whereas the Hoosier was 104-105." Still something to consider, but certainly not as big of a deal as some made it out to be. You just adjust your ride height at the stops and keep your arms and rear radius rods where you want them. If you're split height is 15 1/2", then you're only looking a half turn on the stops for a 1" different circumference tire. Most drivers can't feel the difference of 1/2 turn on the stop adjusters, especially with used bars that are not as sharp as new ones. I think guys started figuring this out when blocking their cars and they weren't attaining the ride height that they should. The bar raters (dynos) came about and they saw just how much used bars drop off in spring rate over time. Something most of us knew, but now you have quantitative values to put with them. Then throw in the difference of weight of cars - either running 290# engines or nearly 600# engines. Even drivers at 120# soaking wet vs 200# driver. Weight definitely has an affect on ride heights. You can see the need to block the car differently when running a 410 vs a 305 or 360 based just on the weight of the engine alone.

With a kart, we don't have that suspension to work with, so to change the center of gravity, we're stuck with changing ride height (done in very small increments) or raising weight in the car (done very easily with a driver that weighs as much or more than the chassis.) If I get to a kart track that is going to be no bite at all and I need to get the right side tires in the track (beyond normal conditions where we'd make minor air adjustments, etc) then I've got a second set of holes drilled in the rear of the seat to raise the entire seat up 1." (I use rubber grommets in the front.) This raises the CoG considerably and nails the right side tires harder at entry. I'd rather do it that way than to change the ride height of the car. If, by going to smaller right sides, you were taking tilt out, that would help get the right sides in the track better, BUT, if the stagger needs to remain the same, that means that the lefts sides also need to be smaller - thus tilt remains the same.
I can't speak for all manufacturers, but I'd suggest that most would agree that you want to keep the kart's ride height based off of 34" right side tires. Of course, nothing is set in stone, but the more consistent you are (removing extra variables such as ride height) the more predictable the kart's performance will be when you make small adjustments.

All good coffee discussion. :)
 
Speaking bout maybe a special sprint car being more like a kart at least at the RR corner.

PM me if you want to know more bout it and it's a WoO winning car.

I understand it's generally accepted that the wing is capable of generally providing around 1500 pounds of down force.
... how bout Brian having a RR corner where a 1000 pounds of load on the RR only moves the RR down 1".

Take what I wrote and try to figure out what bars or bar you could put in the back to give you just an inch of travel at 1000 pounds of load.
... ya can't do it.

Actually watched it in action with a great view entering an end of a track and my son watched it from a great vantage point on the other side of the track mid corner out and yep Brian, the thing didn't even appear to budge down on the RR corner.
 
Speaking bout maybe a special sprint car being more like a kart at least at the RR corner.

PM me if you want to know more bout it and it's a WoO winning car.

I understand it's generally accepted that the wing is capable of generally providing around 1500 pounds of down force.
... how bout Brian having a RR corner where a 1000 pounds of load on the RR only moves the RR down 1".

Take what I wrote and try to figure out what bars or bar you could put in the back to give you just an inch of travel at 1000 pounds of load.
... ya can't do it.

Actually watched it in action with a great view entering an end of a track and my son watched it from a great vantage point on the other side of the track mid corner out and yep Brian, the thing didn't even appear to budge down on the RR corner.
Yes, Yes we've been running a spring on the RR, on a torsion bar car all summer, and it's been bad fast. 360 and 410 with great success. But it's not just plug and play, you have to have a bar dyno, and there's alot of math that goes into it.
 
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